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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 7:25 pm
by dustonian
here we go again... KY recreational use statute, etc. etc.

these gum-balls all need to rack up, get a good mentor, and go climb the 1000+ good quality moderate trad pitches in the DBNF all sitting there virtually untouched. I guarantee if everyone picked up solid safety skills from the get go and stopped worrying about their "redpoint grade," the ridiculous accident rate here would swiftly decline. or at least we wouldn't have to hear about it as much anymore :wink:

Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 7:31 pm
by caribe
dustonian wrote: I guarantee if everyone picked up solid safety skills ...
+1

Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 7:38 pm
by the lurkist
Thanks Grant for doing what needs doing. RS does need closure. It is hammered. The base there is as impacted as any in the area. Everyone on here knows this and understands your actions. But this brings up a bigger problem that we have seen with every transgression at any cliff in the Red- this site doesn't reach the offenders. yes, it might trickle out into the community, but we really don't have an effective method to reach the weekend/ traveling climbers who aren't invested in the community. For instance, the guy who was using blue chalk- did he frequent this bbs? The folks who were crapping all over the Lode, did they get the memo?
We need a more effective mechanism to reach these morons who are using the resource for a few weeks/ weekend, then moving on and not caring how their actions effect others in their wake.
Any ideas? It needs to be simplistic and effective. Through Miguels?

Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 7:47 pm
by pigsteak
I have the answer, but it ain't gonna fly. How many of us are there on here regularly...100? If every single one of us stood up and policed those around us, ask others to do the same, and to spread the word, then the message would get out. But the majority of us are just like "the others" we scorn. We want to be left alone when we climb, we don't want to be the nanny police, we want to avoid confrontation,and we want to send our proj brah....

That being said, several years ago I proposed that all crags be closed on a rotating basis for at least a one year period, to allow for re-vegetation and to remind climbers of the fragile state of affairs in access. I submit this proposal again.

Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 7:47 pm
by Toad
Mentors would be great, but the big problem to solve is getting people to care about the wilderness. Far too many of these "climbers" think that since they aren't indoors that anything goes.

Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 7:49 pm
by ReachHigh
a sign in the parking lot or trail head would be the best bet, Also a board of "shame" at Miguel's of crags that have been lost or access reduced due to the actions of climbers might get the point across.

Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 7:53 pm
by Toad
Stop making everything so safe and convenient.

Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 7:55 pm
by mazzystr
i believe team suck put those chains up in effort to make 5.11's and 5.12's more accessible to stick clipping sport climbers who don't want to complete the entrance exam to hard climbing. the idea was a bad one from the start.

/C

Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 7:57 pm
by climb2core
pigsteak wrote: That being said, several years ago I proposed that all crags be closed on a rotating basis for at least a one year period, to allow for re-vegetation and to remind climbers of the fragile state of affairs in access. I submit this proposal again.
I like the sentiment, but think that you need to come up with land closures and restrictions based upon a little more educated opinions. Get some climber/conservationists come in to do an impact assessment and determine sustainability plan rather than the PFBSHP program (Pigge Fly by the Seat of His Pants for the un-educated)

Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 7:58 pm
by dustonian
pigsteak wrote: That being said, several years ago I proposed that all crags be closed on a rotating basis for at least a one year period, to allow for re-vegetation and to remind climbers of the fragile state of affairs in access. I submit this proposal again.
Interesting idea, but unfortunately the erosion issues in the Red are mostly inside the drip/vegetation line. That far right moderate slab at Roadside, however, is an exception and is most definitely in need of a rest and some serious trail day/reconstruction/erosion prevention efforts. Yet another reason to avoid bolting easy vertical routes in the Red.