Redpoint wrote:I just thought of this, you know how you aren't supposed to glue hangers to the rock when using mechanical bolts because it masks the condition of the bolt(as in if the bolt came loose after a bunch of falls but the hanger is glued to the rock you couldn't tell that the bolt was loose), well considering you are going to glue the rod in the hole, you might as well glue the hanger to the rock to prevent spinners.
If you glued the rod and the hanger at the same time it could mask how well the rod is glued, and so I would glue the rod one day, check it's integrity the next day, and then then glue the hanger.
I read on some climbing site that some types of epoxy can have negative effects on metal, and so be sure to use glue/epoxy that's safe with metal.
never in my entire life have I known someone to glue hangers to the wall..interesting.
Redpoint wrote:I just thought of this, you know how you aren't supposed to glue hangers to the rock when using mechanical bolts because it masks the condition of the bolt(as in if the bolt came loose after a bunch of falls but the hanger is glued to the rock you couldn't tell that the bolt was loose), well considering you are going to glue the rod in the hole, you might as well glue the hanger to the rock to prevent spinners.
If you glued the rod and the hanger at the same time it could mask how well the rod is glued, and so I would glue the rod one day, check it's integrity the next day, and then then glue the hanger.
I read on some climbing site that some types of epoxy can have negative effects on metal, and so be sure to use glue/epoxy that's safe with metal.
Being that epoxy doesn't exactly bond to metal, I'm not sure how well gluing hangers to the rock would work. My guess is that the hanger would stick under a bit of force, but it would be only a fraction of the strength of the glue-rock bond. Glue-in bolts work because the glue forms a bond with the rock, then hardens around the contours of the bolt, rod, or whatever it is. For example, since the Titt bolts are twisted, in theory you could simply untwist them right out of the hole, but the glue would remain in the hole and be incredibly strong still.
Wave Bolt- the best climbing bolt available! www.wavebolt.com
"...I'm over all that macho stuff, and if I bolt a route, it will be done properly." - Colin Goodey
Redpoint wrote:I just thought of this, you know how you aren't supposed to glue hangers to the rock when using mechanical bolts because it masks the condition of the bolt(as in if the bolt came loose after a bunch of falls but the hanger is glued to the rock you couldn't tell that the bolt was loose), well considering you are going to glue the rod in the hole, you might as well glue the hanger to the rock to prevent spinners.
If you glued the rod and the hanger at the same time it could mask how well the rod is glued, and so I would glue the rod one day, check it's integrity the next day, and then then glue the hanger.
I read on some climbing site that some types of epoxy can have negative effects on metal, and so be sure to use glue/epoxy that's safe with metal.
never in my entire life have I known someone to glue hangers to the wall..interesting.
this is just a spooky post altogether.....
And on the third day, God created the Red River Gorge(by conjecture), and he saw that it was good.
You guys are bat shit crazy. You think that epoxy doesn't bond to metal. The other guy thinks that they"look cool". And one guy thinks that just because a material is rated for sesmic areas and cracked concrete that it somehow extrapolates that you can reuse a bolt hole that has had mechanical pressure applied to it.(which by the way when I called Hilti they said that reusing mechanical bolt holes was not the intention of their product and they would assume no liability toward anchor failure.)Nice...
You guys should really consider your ways. Honestly, what qualifies you other than a degree in some non-related field?
If you give a man a match, he'll be warm for a minute. If you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life!
like what...That just because a bolt looks cool doesn't make it a better bolt. That to say that two part epoxy won't adhere to metal is silly. How about to re-use a hole with a chemical bolt is not the original intention of the manufacturer and that doing that is not the same as being in a seismic area or broken concrete. I've worked for years in the field placing and using all sorts of anchor systems. Using them for their intended purposes. I tell a guy on here that using glue ins in a old hole isn't to specs and he dismisses me like I don't know what I'm talking about all because he thinks that his medical degree translates in to some sort of miracle knowledge about how this shit works...Yeah, I think you guys are some arrogant know-it-all pricks. The only saving grace for your anchor systems is that its so strong that even at 1/4 strength it will never fail. Until it does that is. Good luck with that...
If you give a man a match, he'll be warm for a minute. If you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life!
