RRC Archives

Just leave a note at the base of the climbing, spewing said magic beta. It would be nice if it had step by step pictures to accompany it to.

Thanks in advance.

i'd love to see a video of the 'correct' beta on iniquity. i tried it once in the summer with a much to light belayer and couldn't work it out.

Left Hand hand jam. Then you can move as static as you want to those little crimps set your feet and go.

be forewarned that traversing in from cell block via the ledge is a certain grounder....

OK I'll say it Andrew...

Andrew wants all you "I think Inequity is too hard for 12b" guys to try his piss hard bouldery routes Freakin' Deacon(http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... te&id=2300) and The Juice (http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... te&id=2303).

Andrew, how the heck are these guys going to do your 12a routes if they think the start of Iniquity is hard????

Freakin Deacon is balls harder than Iniquity...

Love all the opinions... it's really good to see how and to what extent my strengths and weaknesses make me feel that routes are easier or harder for me than the given grade. I have to agree with DonnyP that there are no moves I have found to be harder on any RRG 12b than the bottom of Iniquity. I've done the route more than a few times and with different beta at the bottom. I boulder much harder than you're saying the boulder problem is, and I am nearly maxed out everytime I do the moves. I can name countless V5's that I think are easier, in the Southeast no less. And to your previous point, I think that if you took a boulder who can only do V4 and let him/her work it, they would just get crushed until it made them much stronger.

JR wrote: That may be true but it doesn't change the fact that 19 people have voted for 12b and only 2 have voted for 12c. O wait. Make that 20 for 12b!!!

I got into this same debate with Kipp and Ray about Malice, which I think is solid 12D and have had maybe 12 RRG climbers tell me that they fervently agree. Clearly these people have not voted on the site, though it is only 5-4 barely for 12c right now. I think people when they are on the fence usually just vote the current grade, especially when it's already lined up and all you have to do is click vote rather than changing the grade. I had said before that a more accurate and less suggestive way to poll is to make the climber choose the grade no matter what, but I understand than convenience seems more important than a few votes for a different grade. Obviously at 20 to 2 (make that 3 now) that's not just accountable by suggestion/laziness in clicking, but I do think it's an interesting point. Also, I often find myself not agreeing when discussing the middle bouldering grades (say 4-6) with you, Andrew, or Odub since you all often train by bouldering and/or boulder V10, whereas I often train on a rope. Maybe I need to spend a lot more time on the campus board/bouldering wall.

Dustonian wrote: Freakin Deacon is balls harder than Iniquity...

Freakin Deacon does have a few hard moves, but you can stick both of your entire legs into the horizontal right before the crux and it makes the route miles easier.

How does Iniquity compare to Cruxifixion in terms of the start?

Cruxifixion's beginning is easier in my opinion but if you're not into slicing your fingertips open you may just let go and say "fuck this, lower me" which may make it appear harder.

SCIN wrote:Cruxifixion's beginning is easier in my opinion but if you're not into slicing your fingertips open you may just let go and say "fuck this, lower me" which may make it appear harder.

Sounds like Iniquity start is more like V5-6. I tried it for like 3 minutes at then end of a long day of climbing and then just pulled through the moves. But IMO I think Iniquity is deserving of 12c. Once I send it I will vote for that grade.