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Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 5:35 pm
by ynp1
pawilkes.

That sounds like a pretty badass season and good job of meeting 5 of 6 goals. But how many new 5.11's did you send? I hope you where pretty close to 95% before the season started or you would have to climb a lot of 5.12's to meet your goal of climbing more 12's then 11's.

Cool ideas for goals, expectional the fact that one of your goals makes the other one even harder. I would have set my goal to climbing more 12's then 11's and not touch a 11 so I could reach my goal... But that is why I am light....

NIce Work!

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 6:37 pm
by camhead
This fall was mixed for me; I'd give it an 8. Managed to get out every weekend from mid-August to Thanksgiving, alternating between the New and the Red every other trip, with a few bouldering trips to Coopers Rock thrown in for variety. Pretty much divided the time equally between sport and trad, going to new crags, exploring, and even a bit of new route development at the New. Also had a great trip to Looking Glass, climbed granite cracks for the first time in several years, and had a blast doing it.

I fell short, however, projecting routes, as I was bitching and moaning in the "for those of you who trained" thread a few weeks back. I started periodization training in the gym this summer, forced myself to a hang/campus board routine, and my endurance and power peaked perfectly by late October. But unfortunately, the ADD kicked in, and I never went to the same crag more than twice this fall. The highpoint on all my projects was going up to find Welcome to Ol Kentuck in perfect conditions a couple weeks ago, and falling one move from the anchors, after kicking my feet over to Brontasaurus. Fail. The agony! Oh well, it's all just training.

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 7:25 pm
by tbwilsonky
10/10. when the weather gets crispy i always ditch the rope and dart for the boulders, but my plan this year was to stay on the rope for as long as the weather would allow.

i did and it was awesome. as a result, i'm probably as hyped on climbing as i've been in the last decade.

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 10:55 pm
by clif
2 trips to Hanging Rock and 2 to the Red, minimally acceptable and just clinging to baseline difficulty. An outrage really. Making some progress building the 11' basement wall. For the record, next year I'd like to clean and FA the dihedral/crack at Drive-By between some 10 and the grid, or else some line somewhere. 4.

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 11:30 pm
by pawilkes
ynp1 wrote:pawilkes.

That sounds like a pretty badass season and good job of meeting 5 of 6 goals. But how many new 5.11's did you send? I hope you where pretty close to 95% before the season started or you would have to climb a lot of 5.12's to meet your goal of climbing more 12's then 11's.

Cool ideas for goals, expectional the fact that one of your goals makes the other one even harder. I would have set my goal to climbing more 12's then 11's and not touch a 11 so I could reach my goal... But that is why I am light....

NIce Work!
I was at 90.3% of 269 at the beginning of the year, sent another 35 this year and ended up at 95.2% of 295, so sending that 5% required keeping up with all the new routes as well as sending half of what was left. I sent 39 12's so I didn't make the "more 12s than 11s" goal by too much of a margin. before this year i had only climbed 25 12's and a few of those were downgraded afterwards or are considered soft, so more than doubling my 12 sendage was pretty cool

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 11:37 pm
by ynp1
NICE!

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 12:07 am
by Jamelyn
9+. Not to sound sappy, but it's been a life changing year... I moved to KY in June for an internship with a horrific, soul-sucking schedule. I pretty much expected a hell year that would take 10 years off my life, but would help me move forward in my career. Instead, I fell into a wonderful community of people, became borderline obsessed with climbing, completely derailed from my career path and had a massive reset of what my life priorities are. It's been cool to see major changes, both physically and in my abilities. So... you know... thanks, folks... and all those sort of sentimental things :D

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 12:45 am
by mike_a_lafontaine
My climbing skills did not improve one bit, but this was the first year my son (3) fit into his little kid triango harness and it turns out he loves climbing. And my 5 year old...well, she's already better than I am and it was only her second year. Next year, perhaps I'll teach her how to lead so she can set shit I can't for me...

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 1:10 am
by roots
1.999(-)

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 6:48 pm
by ynot
I went climbing 3 times this year. I painted a bunch of houses so I climbed more ladders than I did rock.
2010 was forgetable.