Sharing my power/strength training plan

[One-Fall]

Piggie, dont compare yourself to Kentucky's version of Paxti.
Ray, Im not planning on keeping up any strength maintainance. How quickly do you lose it?

[rjackson]

....it truly sucks to be this weak.

...and old.

Lol.

Seriously? This is where you would normally insert a quit your whining comment. You're already cranking more than most, coming off an injury. And when these other guys peter out in November, you'll be primed to crush in the best temps! But then, you know all this... and more. Train on Pigsteak!

[Brentucky]

Piggie, dont compare yourself to Kentucky's version of Paxti.
Ray, Im not planning on keeping up any strength maintainance. How quickly do you lose it?

Only one way to find out for sure... rope up and hop on them projects boys and girls!

[SCIN]

Piggie, dont compare yourself to Kentucky's version of Paxti.
Ray, Im not planning on keeping up any strength maintainance. How quickly do you lose it?

I feel like I lose power pretty quickly, especially climbing at the Red. I plan on setting some bouldering goals for the winter and I don't want to have to train up for several weeks to get where I want to be when it hits. James Litz once told me his reasoning for not wanting to move to Lexington to be near the Red. He said "I don't want to become a weak bitch." These enduro routes just suck my power away.

[One-Fall]

Well that sucks. Not really what I wanted to hear.

Guess as soon as I see it slipping, Ill start back a little.

thanks.

[pigsteak]

enduro for sure cripples power. I am an enduro fiend, and can't do hard moves.

[SCIN]

Well that sucks. Not really what I wanted to hear.

Guess as soon as I see it slipping, Ill start back a little.

thanks.

I don't think it'll be a big deal if it slips a little, Lee. I usually just let mine slip during route season and it doesn't affect my climbing. I just have an agenda for the winter so this season I'm going to try to keep the strength/power up more than usual.

[One-Fall]

LOL! thanks, ray. I forget that some of us have other plans outside of the Red

[pigsteak]

quick question..when you are doing the three finger hangs, do you curl your other finger under or try to straighten it out of the way? neither way feels comfortable.

[chriss]

quick question..when you are doing the three finger hangs, do you curl your other finger under or try to straighten it out of the way? neither way feels comfortable.

I curl the other finger. Should feel natural, similar to using a three finger hold outside.

Another question, when you are using holds 3 and 4 on the moon board how much do you train in the full crimp position vs open hand?