Accident at Darkside sat.

[Josephine]

since not everyone has facebook - here's an update

As for the latest news (noon; 4/20): it has been correctly reported that Mike sustained a significant head injury as a result of a fall while climbing. He remains in a coma in critical condition at the ICU as the doctors work through the complicated process of managing the swelling and stabilizing his condition in order to better assess what is a very complex injury. His overall condition has remained essentially unchanged since his admission to ICU. We all know that Mike will continue to fight to overcome this. As reporting on every minute change in his condition can quickly become counterproductive, I hope you all can rest assured that I will post any significant changes as soon as the information is made available..

my prayers are still with him & his belayer.

[goodguy]

Thanks Josephine. My thoughts are with Mike and his full recovery.

[goodguy]

Could the moderators move the Walkie Talkie stuff to a new thread?

[flashmaster]

agreed!

[Clevis Hitch]

this is actually part of the grief process. Don't move it. Let it ride.

[512OW]

My guess is that he blew the 4th clip, which is right in the middle of the crux. If you do this ground potential is definitely an option no matter what anyone tells you. I've seen people come right above the belayer's head by falling without rope clipping slack out. It would be easy to slip off of the slopey clipping hold, especially in this warmer weather... maybe this should finally be fixed!

I can't imagine a better spot for the bolt. As it is, the belayer doesn't have to feed out slack for the climber to clip. The "slopey" clipping hold is good, and its the best hold anywhere within a safe area that you could clip from. I've taken the fall from the hold, and its perfectly safe, assuming the belayer doesn't automatically feed out an arm length of slack for clipping. As the climber, its your responsibility to inform your belayer of any tricky spots.

[bigwallfish]

My guess is that he blew the 4th clip, which is right in the middle of the crux. If you do this ground potential is definitely an option no matter what anyone tells you. I've seen people come right above the belayer's head by falling without rope clipping slack out. It would be easy to slip off of the slopey clipping hold, especially in this warmer weather... maybe this should finally be fixed!

As the climber adjacent to the accident I can truthfully say that the location of the 4th bolt had nothing to do with the outcome of the fall...My guess is that your guess is wrong.

[DriskellHR]

key word here is "GUESS"

[SCIN]

Words from Mike's father as posted by Lee on the Facebook page:

"Mike had a rough night last night. His will and spirit are sustaining him, and your prayers."

Please keep Mike and his family in your thoughts and prayers.

lee

[quicksilver]

It breaks my heart to hear of an accident like this and it happens much too often. I am praying for the young man. After nearly 20 years of climbing I sometimes wonder if it is worth the chance of severe injury or death. I have personally introduced many young folks (including my son) to climbing and always expound on the joys and spiritual aspects of the whole endeavor. Please be careful and climb safe as you all have loved ones and friends who know you not just as a climber but as a being they love and care about. I know shit happens as it has happened to me but you all are such good people and losing even one is not acceptable. Best wishes for Mike and his family.