RRC Archives

stix wrote:

KD wrote:so if x was a hooker and Y was a big fat chick then....?

a question for the good ole days, when climbing was dangerous and sex was safe

yep

KD wrote:so if x was a hooker and Y was a big fat chick then....?

I'd definitely back it up!

TradMike wrote:EDK death
http://www.geocities.com/danielzimmerli ... /knot.html

where did it say that the victim died?

Again this proves my point of application. Why didn't he lower the two climbers. They obviously had no knowledge of the overhand knot. Why didn't he use a different knot? I think there is some stuff missing in this report. I wonder if the climbers retied the knot into a figure eight; I realize it says that they didn't. Also when moving the knot off the anchor it puts less force on it due to it not being at the apex. It would only have half body weight on it. I would hate to draw any conclusions off this accident, and yea; I don't think any one died???

Maybe they didn't die and maybe it was a bad knot. I have seen the EDK roll on a long rappel with skinny ropes 9mm. It was enough for me to stop using it. Maybe that roll is all it needs to tighten?

Another note, take two 200 lb climbers simul-rappelling through a ring. Both climbers making a quick stop generating 3 Gs each. The knot has been tested to failure at 1,400 lbs. That is not much of a safety factor left. 2 times the 600 lbs on both ends somewhat shock loading the knot at 1200 lbs over a skinny ring. 200 more pounds and it would be lethal. Makes one think a lot. I saw it roll when the first stopped very fast on twins on rappel. I was at eye level and 1ft away to watch.

Most applications you want at least 3 times safety factor on gear. Cranes use 5 times.