Spraylord Wanted

[krampus]

Ah, I gotta remember the trad spray thread. Posted in the original Spraylords, but forgot about this one.

I sent a project/FA yesterday over at Chocolate Factory. Had to add a bolt to keep it from being R, maybe even X. Either way, the top 3/4 is all gear.

Some cool moves down low lead to a chossy ledge (but a good stance) below a thin dihedral. It's all there, there just ain't much of it. There's three good areas for fingers, each successively getting smaller before it totally shuts down, leaving you wondering what to do and still 8 feet from your next piece. If you want the super-cool beta you'll have to get on it and I'll spray you down, but three or four grunts later and you've made a stance. Place a suspect piece (or two, or three) in a smallish chossy ledge before another set of cool moves to overcome a bulge to the right. Step through, find a great side pull and step up into a hand crack of sorts for another 30-ish feet of easier(?) climbing, and bomber gear the whole way to the anchors Clip the chains, enjoy the view (and the send?).

It takes a wide variety of style to get to the top, with some pretty cool moves sprinkled about. Not recommended for the feint of heart or as a first 10 lead (it's going at 10b). Should show up in the on-line guide soon. PM me if you want beta.

rout name please? All those established trad lines at choco look bad ass. How is that thin dihedral 11?

[rjackson]

route name please? All those established trad lines at choco look bad ass. How is that thin dihedral 11?

Yesterday's is called Wonderland. 5.8 climbing to the thin dihedral, which I'm calling 5.10b (maybe c?), then it's probably old school 5.7/8 to the anchors. It's a good line, located about 50 feet right of Through The Looking Glass.

And I'm guessing you're asking about Through The Looking Glass (5.11d), the overhanging acute dihedral... It's awesome, and it's all there, and it's hard. At first I thought it would be hard 10, but 6 people have been on it for the grade concensus, and a couple thought maybe even 12a. No one has red pointed it, and only me and Christian have plugged the gear. I'm about to start working it for the red point. It just takes so much out of you that you don't get many burns in a day. It's full body, all out. One so-so rest about 1/3 of the way up the dihedral, then gruntin' and crankin' to the chains. Don't even think about it on a day after it rains, but when it's dry it's good.

[jrathfon]

sounds fun and hard, not sure it should be my next 5.11 project though...

rjackson = jr?, it was good meeting you this weekend, (it's popeye)

[SCIN]

route name please? All those established trad lines at choco look bad ass. How is that thin dihedral 11?

Yesterday's is called Wonderland. 5.8 climbing to the thin dihedral, which I'm calling 5.10b (maybe c?), then it's probably old school 5.7/8 to the anchors. It's a good line, located about 50 feet right of Through The Looking Glass.

And I'm guessing you're asking about Through The Looking Glass (5.11d), the overhanging acute dihedral... It's awesome, and it's all there, and it's hard. At first I thought it would be hard 10, but 6 people have been on it for the grade concensus, and a couple thought maybe even 12a. No one has red pointed it, and only me and Christian have plugged the gear. I'm about to start working it for the red point. It just takes so much out of you that you don't get many burns in a day. It's full body, all out. One so-so rest about 1/3 of the way up the dihedral, then gruntin' and crankin' to the chains. Don't even think about it on a day after it rains, but when it's dry it's good.

Hey now! What's with the misinformation? Why do I have you guys down as the FAs for that if it hasn't been sent? Waddup!?

[jrathfon]

sweet, im going for the FFA!

[SCIN]

That's the cool thing about cracks. You can't close them so the coveted FFA is always up for grabs.

[rjackson]

I knew when I wrote that, that it would probably bring a hell storm!

Christian led it, ground up, placing gear; and fell. Every move was done clean. That's an established FA in trad-land, but not sport. I cleaned and equipped (so I'm second), but I've also led it, and fell. Neither of us aided it!

So, the first 'red point' is up for grabs! FFA? We freed it (as any trad line), and it has never been protected by anything other than gear so is there an FFA?

So now, the debate begins again?!

[rjackson]

That's the cool thing about cracks. You can't close them so the coveted FFA is always up for grabs.

It's a matter of semantics, but you are right on!

[jrathfon]

ehhh, fuzzy gray. but resting or falling on gear mid-way counts as a point of aid, just as much as pulling on a piece, or standing on a piece (aiders, or litterally standing on a pin). yous guys definitely got the FA, but the FFA is still up for grabs.

here's a wrench: if falling or resting on gear counts as aid, how do hanging belays fall in there? aghhh!

[rjackson]

Agree, it's all fuzzy gray... Anyway, I would love to see the route sent. I know I'll be working it now that the temps are getting good and hope maybe someone else will get inspired also!

FYI As far as difficulty, it hasn't even been sent clean on TR.