Spraylord Wanted

Post by **krampus** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 12:39 pm

hell yeah, nice work. now I really have to train harder

whats next for ya? Lets send some shite tomorrow.

Ahab, he might even be ready for girls gone wild....wooooo

Post by **Brentucky** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 1:03 pm

i ain't signing up for shit else on here, rock climbing is hard and scary! i learned yesterday that's just too much pressure and couldn't leave until i sent that rig!

Post by **lena_chita** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 3:17 pm

mike_anderson wrote:Glad to see you're psyched on the Lode...I have some stuff to do there.

Sounds good!

Post by **lena_chita** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 3:31 pm

Brentucky wrote: 3rd attempt, this bitch is going down. she went down smooth like butta with plenty of energy to spare! i'm totally psyched up now that more shit might be coming soon. that is my personal proudest and most fun f'ing jug haul of an 11c i've sent yet!

Nice work, and I can relate!

I tried Ro 2 summers ago on a toprope, lured by the promise of ".11b", figuring that hey, I just sent Fuzzy, I'll give it a try... couldn't get to the second bolt.

Gave up in disgust, decided that it wasn't a route for short people, it was way harder than 12a if you were short, that all those tall guys were sandbagging me, and I hated it so much that I didn't even want to look at it when I walked by.

A month ago I decided that it was going down. Right this moment. I still wonder what bit me that day, because I had no idea if I could even hang the draws, nobody was there to do it for me, and not even a stick clip to bail myself out. But hang draws I did, and down it went, on the 3rd try.

LOL, it felt so good on the send, I came down thinking: 'yeah, what's the big deal, .11b, no harder than that, why did I mess it up so badly before?' Then I had to do it again on a toprope after someone went up to the 4th bolt, partially cleaned it and gave up, and i promptly upgraded it back to .11d. It is seriously harder on toprope.

Post by **Andrew** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 3:37 pm

Ro is easier if you are short, just like 98% of routes at the red.

Post by **lena_chita** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 3:58 pm

Andrew wrote:Ro is easier if you are short, just like 98% of routes at the red.

Could you please identify the ones in the 2% category, so I stay away from them, and spare everyone the subsequent whining? (I am good at whining!-- but it is best enjoyed in moderation by my climbing partners.)

No need to mention Dogleg, I am already planning on not touching that part of canine anatomy, for many many years to come.

Post by **Crankmas** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 4:14 pm

great to see so many psyched... hoping to be belaying some serious sendage!

Post by **Andrew** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 5:26 pm

Wicked Games, Bundle, Demon Seed, and a few others.

Post by **lena_chita** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 6:12 pm

Andrew wrote:Wicked Games, Bundle, Demon Seed, and a few others.

Thanks. It is easy to stay away from the routes that are out of my reach in every sense of the word! I had to look up Demon seed-- I guess Dogleg has a close neighbor now.

Post by **camhead** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 6:16 pm

lena_chita wrote:
Andrew wrote:Ro is easier if you are short, just like 98% of routes at the red.
Could you please identify the ones in the 2% category, so I stay away from them, and spare everyone the subsequent whining? (I am good at whining!-- but it is best enjoyed in moderation by my climbing partners.)

No need to mention Dogleg, I am already planning on not touching that part of canine anatomy, for many many years to come.

Naw, Dogleg is like 11a if you're short. You can do hand-foot matches in those horizontals, bring your hips in, and statically reach for the next hold. Way casual. You should totally get on it.