RRC Archives

I think the consensus here is... Do what your conscious permits Mike.
I would take in the account of tradmike though. That would suck if some strong sport climber decides to put up his first mixed climb and blows the placement.
Then you will forever wonder if you not putting those bolts there caused some dummy to hurt or kill himself.

Don't listen to me though. I want to be conservative and bring back "porter" hangers.

by conservative I mean tradition

It sounds like Mike is looking for community consensus to back his desire to cheese.
If you got to think too long, think wrong.
OR... go ahead and bolt it. If your call is wrong someone will most likely come after you and do it in better style and your name will be associated with the botched/cheesed original effort.
Just so you know....

i dont think it should be bolted. i think more of the "bad ass" trad climbers in the red need to get on the climb and see if it takes gear or not. after a couple people get on the route then i think you can decide to bolt or not.

if you want an FA then bolt it and do it as fast as possible. but i dont think it should be all about FA's. that is why i think if you just pink point it for the FA is better then bolting it. i do believe you said that it does take small nuts but there hard to place. well that is part of trad climbing... right???

it is a lot easier to remove a few nuts then it is to pull bolts and fill the holes... dont bring the route down to your level. work it and try to bring yourself up to its level and if it turns out to not take gear, then make a sport climb out of it.

but whatever... i would pound pitons into it until it was 5.8, and then i would be able to climb it.

i also agree with lurker...

take it from lurk...he is the original cheese puff.

btw, we have closed the entire left side of choc factory, so please don't visit. there are too many FA's left, and I ran out of red tape. shamis has offered to put bolts at eye level with a red tag every 5 feet for me as soon as he gets done playing video games in a week. so please be patient.

I have just received insider info from rjackson that he will be bringing yellow police tape (caution...do not cross) to use on saturday. if most don't mind, we are thinking of using it at the trailhead so folks don't waste their time hiking up there to find stuff closed. it is easier this way, and for your protection of course. if it works out nicely, we will be using the same tactic to periodically close crags all over the gorge to allow for re-vegetation and re-bolting. each crag should not be closed more than 3-4 months at a time.

What happened to just peeing on the climb?

what happened to just putting the first bolt 40 feet off the deck and then going back and adding a "first bolt" - i hear that's how lander kept the riff raff off.

whatahutch wrote: That would suck if some strong sport climber decides to put up his first mixed climb and blows the placement.
Then you will forever wonder if you not putting those bolts there caused some dummy to hurt or kill himself.

meh, sport climbers dont get on mixed routs anyway, just the thought of gear gives them the willies