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Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 1:59 am
by JR
Mercy Miss Percy is not an example of a route, therefore can not be soft.
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 5:23 pm
by Cleveland
JR wrote:Mercy Miss Percy is not an example of a route, therefore can not be soft.
It has bolts and anchors and is in the guidebook, i would say that classifies it as a route no matter what the quality is.
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 5:52 pm
by Crankmas
one man's metaphysical is another man's mucinex
Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 1:52 am
by michaelarmand
Lander wrote:there's an "11a" at johnny's wall called burning bush that i swear is no harder than AWOL. that's the worst exmple i can think of. to be fair, some climbs at other walls down there felt solid so i guess it just depends which ones you go to.
Well concensus is 11a for this climb, and the crux is way harder than AWOL. Routes are rated by the hardest move, not the average!
Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 1:56 am
by Wes
michaelarmand wrote: Routes are rated by the hardest move, not the average!
This would be time for one of those "FAIL" LOL cat things, but I am too lazy to go find one...
Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 2:03 am
by bcombs
michaelarmand wrote:Well concensus is 11a for this climb, and the crux is way harder than AWOL. Routes are rated by the hardest move, not the average!
Michael, you know better than that! Routes are graded by hardest move
or what feels like the hardest move because you've done 60 moves to get there! Tuna Town?
IMO, many routes at the Red that are graded by hardest move are graded that way to inflate the number. Immaculate Deception? Routes are usually rated by hardest move when the rest of the route is several grades lower.
Plus, Lander doesn't need a lesson in grading at the Red. He's OC!
Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 2:13 am
by Josephine
bcombs wrote:
Plus, Lander doesn't need a lesson in grading at the Red. He's OC!
right you are
Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 12:53 pm
by Lander
i was just sayin'.
that climb felt surprisingly easy to me, like about 10b, yet consensus says 11a. but there's a climb at chica called the dude abides that totally kicked my ass. i believe it was originally rated 11a. consensus says 11b. felt like a 12 to me. i'm in the minority in both cases.
ratings are sooo subjective.
Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 2:51 pm
by rustyvasectomy
michaelarmand wrote:Lander wrote:
Well concensus is 11a for this climb, and the crux is way harder than AWOL. Routes are rated by the hardest move, not the average!
Well, considering the first moves of fuzzy undercling are harder than any moves on the madness, the madness is officially 11a!
Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 4:32 pm
by camhead
All of the routes at the Solarium are soft except for Urban Voodoo. Psyberpunk is 11a in the old guidebook, which I thought was sandbagged; it's 11c on here which I think is about right. Jesus Wept feels like 12c but I haven't sent it yet. Lip Service it not 11c, it is HP40 v4, which means that if you don't have it dialed it is very hard. In conclusion, as a whole, in my opinion, Muir Valley grades are I like turtles.