RRC Archives

hope I'm out bouldering with my dog when the mushroom clouds fill the sky there your collective heaviness-

had an overweight balding traddie lecture me about ethics in the climbing gym the other day. he was climbing in a pair of la sportiva mountain boots
As he sipped on his mandatory seven-dollar-organic-triple-certified-shade-grown-carmel-mocciato-latte he told me about how "sport climbing is neither." After i mentioned that if he loostened his boots up a bit, he would perhaps raise the average carolina climber's coalition climbing grade to a whopping 5.4, he clumsily waddled away and stumbled into his honda pilot (its the new subaru).

rustyvasectomy wrote:After i mentioned that if he loostened his boots up a bit, he would perhaps raise the average carolina climber's coalition climbing grade to a whopping 5.4, he clumsily waddled away and stumbled into his honda pilot (its the new subaru).

so what is your vendetta against the CCC? is it because they purchased the tallest cliff in the continental united states east of the Mississippi? or is it because they don't want you bolting every line in the state?

at any rate, i have a feeling a NC 5.4 would be a real ego smacker for you

pigsteak wrote:

gripster wrote:hey while you guys are at, there are several other cracks you should bolt so i won't be afraid to climb them anymore. hell, let's just bolt all the old classic trad lines. we shouldn't be selfish! everyone should be able to climb these routes whether they have trad gear or not!

agreed..then the movement of the climb would be appreciated without traddies fumbling with gear.

Putting up a sport climb..doing all the hard work of cleaning and bolting and making sure that the climb is going to be a worthy experiance..well..that's art, isn't it? Making something that will be enjoyed by all those who give the time and effort to appreciate it...that's noble..that's like painting or sculpture or music. A very worthy thing

But climbing can be something other than that. More than just movement.

Seeking out intensity maybe...A hard and risky game perhaps..

Sport climbing is wonderful and can make you strong and give you a wonderful weekend, but please also leave something for all the old, fat and weak traddies ( or not ) to puzzle and sweat over. And give some respect.

bazoqop wrote:......And give some respect.

Worth repeating as often as possible around here.

bazo...tongue in cheek brother..tongue in cheek...my guess is bolted cracks in the Red would never go over. I did just come back from Shelf Road and North Table Mountain, where everything is bolted...everything.

pigsteak wrote:bazo...tongue in cheek brother..tongue in cheek...

Heh..Yeah I got that. I guess my reply was more for the original poster.


Respect..

So it seems that there have been a few topics that have turned to a few of the regular equippers talking about bolting the trad routes. The comments seem to be fun and I get that. But would anyone really bolt a trad line? And why? I mean I realize that not every trad route is a complete finger-locking crack, but ...why? Isn't there enough one a two star 5.8s and 5.9s for people to not climb that we have to add 70 feet of the SAME MOVE to the list? Maybe I'm wrong, or maybe I've just had bad trad experiences...

same old weird mentality..there are many bolted face climbs that could be gear protected, so why not leave the faces unbolted, and bolt the cracks, to switch it up? why? cause people are hard wired into their old manner of thinking.