Does a "TRAD RULES" mentality = weakness?
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rustyvasectomy
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2007 12:17 pm
had an overweight balding traddie lecture me about ethics in the climbing gym the other day. he was climbing in a pair of la sportiva mountain boots 
As he sipped on his mandatory seven-dollar-organic-triple-certified-shade-grown-carmel-mocciato-latte he told me about how "sport climbing is neither." After i mentioned that if he loostened his boots up a bit, he would perhaps raise the average carolina climber's coalition climbing grade to a whopping 5.4, he clumsily waddled away and stumbled into his honda pilot (its the new subaru).
As he sipped on his mandatory seven-dollar-organic-triple-certified-shade-grown-carmel-mocciato-latte he told me about how "sport climbing is neither." After i mentioned that if he loostened his boots up a bit, he would perhaps raise the average carolina climber's coalition climbing grade to a whopping 5.4, he clumsily waddled away and stumbled into his honda pilot (its the new subaru).
"It’s a not so secret secret that people who call themselvs trad climbers dont actually climb. They just post shit on rocklimbing.com all night while masturbating to Parrollelojams."
so what is your vendetta against the CCC? is it because they purchased the tallest cliff in the continental united states east of the Mississippi? or is it because they don't want you bolting every line in the state?rustyvasectomy wrote:After i mentioned that if he loostened his boots up a bit, he would perhaps raise the average carolina climber's coalition climbing grade to a whopping 5.4, he clumsily waddled away and stumbled into his honda pilot (its the new subaru).
at any rate, i have a feeling a NC 5.4 would be a real ego smacker for you
Putting up a sport climb..doing all the hard work of cleaning and bolting and making sure that the climb is going to be a worthy experiance..well..that's art, isn't it? Making something that will be enjoyed by all those who give the time and effort to appreciate it...that's noble..that's like painting or sculpture or music. A very worthy thingpigsteak wrote:agreed..then the movement of the climb would be appreciated without traddies fumbling with gear.gripster wrote:hey while you guys are at, there are several other cracks you should bolt so i won't be afraid to climb them anymore. hell, let's just bolt all the old classic trad lines. we shouldn't be selfish! everyone should be able to climb these routes whether they have trad gear or not!
But climbing can be something other than that. More than just movement.
Seeking out intensity maybe...A hard and risky game perhaps..
Sport climbing is wonderful and can make you strong and give you a wonderful weekend, but please also leave something for all the old, fat and weak traddies ( or not ) to puzzle and sweat over. And give some respect.
"Huh?"
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Rotarypwr345704
- Posts: 393
- Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 5:27 pm
So it seems that there have been a few topics that have turned to a few of the regular equippers talking about bolting the trad routes. The comments seem to be fun and I get that. But would anyone really bolt a trad line? And why? I mean I realize that not every trad route is a complete finger-locking crack, but ...why? Isn't there enough one a two star 5.8s and 5.9s for people to not climb that we have to add 70 feet of the SAME MOVE to the list? Maybe I'm wrong, or maybe I've just had bad trad experiences...
I fell for the everyone-shut-up-and-ill-donate-money scheme. -Ray Ellington, guidebook gawd
My name is Sam Douglass and I love to pose for photo shoots holding on to a jug with only one hand (and no feet!) with my best friend Ian.
My name is Sam Douglass and I love to pose for photo shoots holding on to a jug with only one hand (and no feet!) with my best friend Ian.