Page 5 of 5
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 9:54 pm
by Ascentionist
Cams are awesome, especially when noobs over cam them and can't get them out.
BOOTY!
I've used hexes a lot in the Red. The bigger sizes are great. New Red River at WOD protects very well with hexes but not so good with cams because of the interesting way it flares.
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 2:00 am
by Redpoint
Hu I can't imagine, I always thought hexes came in last when it comes to flaring cracks. How exactly were they better, was it because they were not as wide as a cam and fit better, or were they just easier to place?
I always thought hexes were cool because you can use them even where there is no bottleneck, but when John Long pointed out in 'Climbing Anchors' that when they are placed like that they are prone to wiggling out, I sort of lost respect for the things. At least you can place one in three different ways, and they work good in bottlenecks, so I still think they are cool for those reasons.
I know cams do great in flared cracks. A cam with two axes could even have one of it's cams deployed over 80% which would be even better for flared cracks.
They make offset tapers, but I can't imagine you would get to use them too often, considering their only use is when you find a bottleneck that flares.
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 11:30 am
by Saxman
I think Redpoint's rank needs to be changed from Gumby to Thus Spoke John Long or So Sayeth John Long or High Priest of the Church of John Long Scripture.
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 12:11 pm
by 512OW
Hexes work great at the Red.
Stoppers work great at the Red.
Tricams work great at the Red.
Cams work great at the Red.
The thing that sucks the most at the Red?
Traddies.
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 6:33 pm
by kato
Trivia: An adequate rack for Roadside Attraction is exactly one set of hexes, plus one cam. Place the cam first then if I remember right, the hexes go in order, smallest to largest.
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 11:29 pm
by ynot
Where is that pic of 512 with a BD 5 around his neck?
Posted: Thu May 14, 2009 12:22 am
by Andrew
Your right about the hexes and one cam for Roadside Attraction, but you have the order of placement wrong. One cam where ever the hell you want, and a rack of hexes to throw at dumbass trad climbers carrying a haul bag up to the crag to climb Motha and Roadside Attraction. To bad they always put their helmets on as soon as they get out of the car.
Posted: Thu May 14, 2009 12:25 am
by bcombs
You forgot the sling for the tree....
