bolted solo

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 2:08 am

kd, it's christmas for god's sake...cut em slack.........

Post by KD » Wed Dec 24, 2008 2:25 am

Post by **Redpoint** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 6:16 am

Ha ha you got me good, I was replying to you KD without really reading your comments as well as I should have. Heck I thought you were the one who posted this topic, and then I realized it was cliff junkie. So ya I'm not that slow, I swear I figured it out before you PM'd me. Good one though. I was cracking up just now reading about you making your own harness, and finding the rope and swinging around on it.

Post by **bcombs** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 12:19 pm

Could we stop saying beaners and start saying biners? Thanks!

Post by **512OW** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 12:40 pm

bcombs wrote:Could we stop saying beaners and start saying biners? Thanks!

Haha. I thought for sure Yasmeen and Paul were gonna be offended...

Post by **Josephine** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 1:52 pm

ynot, you should know better than to take KD seriously!

Post by **ynot** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 3:21 pm

I didn't look at the nick, just assumed it was the original poster. I was surfing the online guide at the same time. There's so much more at the Red I want to do....crags to find routes, to unlock. Read our comments on Eye of the storm. Damn that is a fine crack. Some spice at the top too.

Post by **rhunt** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 6:07 pm

Wes wrote:
Redpoint wrote:. Well it's pretty obvious you shouldn't use the first bolt for an anchor since anchors should consist of at least two pieces of protection for redundancy.
Um, I use the first bolt for stuff like this all the time. Sometimes I add the 2nd as well. Since you are most likely betting your life on one bolt for much, if not all of the first half of many rrg routes much of the time anyway, might as well at least embrace it.

I think I would have rather slit my wrists than actually read this whole thread. But I did painfully skim it. I love it when climbers who often use a grigri talk about redundancy. Terry once pointed out to me that you bet it all on the small little pin in the grigri. So go a head and 'redundancy' the hell out of your rope solo method and be sure to use a grigri.

Post by **ynot** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 6:36 pm

That small little pin isn't left out in the weather for years and years. Several things aren't redundant. The rope, the brake hand, a biner. You take all that stuff home with you at the end of the day, take care of it and keep an eye on it.

Post by **steep4me** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 6:48 pm

krampus wrote:if you are not 100% clear on what to do after reading redpoints soliloquy, then you must be an idiot. Truth is, as long as you are not a complete douche, you could probably ask someone to catch you. Of course then you wouldn't be ale to spray about your bad ass solo on here, and loose all the credibility you gained by starting this post.