RRC Archives

Myke Dronez wrote:

ahab wrote:the guy asks about the future of route deveolpment in the red and the next thing you know cracks are getting bolted!

Is nothing safe from the drill? Shall we do away with R rated climbs? What will become of the bold ascent? is that when you only stick clip the first?

You can still boldly ascend. Nobody forces you to clip the bolts...

Just another off topic post but...

Why are there way, way more trad face routes in the new then in the red? The new has quite a few trad face routes, several quite bold, but there are very few in the red.

And, as for syncro, I think I could lead/protect pocket protector (AKA, what AWOL was called as a gear lead) better then syncro. So, why is one a sport and one a trad (except that it was retro bolted).

512OW wrote:

ynot wrote:Because bolting a whole protectable crack is lame. A protectable face could go either way. Most of them I have done didn't protect that well. Face Farce American Wall and the one up at Purple come to mind. Fadda is an exception.

Depends on your protection skills. I think American Wall can be easily overprotected. I've placed something like 23 different pieces, all solid, on that route, just to see how many I could use...

Wes wrote:Just another off topic post but...

Why are there way, way more trad face routes in the new then in the red? The new has quite a few trad face routes, several quite bold, but there are very few in the red.

Because Porter didn't have his battery charged?

pigsteak wrote:now ladies, let's not get off topic here... as far as I can think, there is not a single bolted crack in the red. (feel free to correct me on that)

Will do: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... php?id=848

Thanks, Kipp-- you know how I enjoy calling you out, especially when you request it.

Back on topic. If new areas continue to open up, I think it's sustainable. It got kinda stale there for awhile before muir and murray. With a couple thousand routes to climb,those of us that that don't climb above 12's have a lifetimes worth of routes and there's other places not too far away, so there's no shortage for us
Seems like the hard climbers travel all over for a challenge. Must be tough on those at the top of the game to find something inspiring. I tagged along with one of those guys one day to Bob Marley. He was telling me his sponsors would give him a rack for the asking. He just doesn't need one. totaly foriegn for me. My rack is my best buddy.

ah crap...I forgot Yasmeen was lurking to bust me. I hate that climb BTW...have been to the last bolt 50 zillion times, and for the life of me can't gumption up any crack technique to finish the durn thing.

We recently had a young man from France visit our crags and he would look up and say, something like, "in France there would be 2x as many bolted lines on this face." I make this statement because, despite previous statements to the contrary, there is a factor controlling what goes up in the Red. There is an overarching aesthetic that suppresses grid bolting. Bitch bitch bitch, but when props are due, give them up.

I don't know what say to the stupid to bolt or not to bolt a crack discussion. Other than what the point really, with the new cam technology isn't just as easy to plug and go instead of clip and go?

As for the sustainable. Of course we should pay it forward but that's not going to happen. I am sure it will just run its course and be tapped out in good time. We can't even get climbers to follow simple rules regarding how to act a cliff, how we going to stop them from bolting cliffs into submission.

At least the bolters know how to act at the crag. well... mostly

caribe wrote:We recently had a young man from France visit our crags and he would look up and say, something like, "in France there would be 2x as many bolted lines on this face." I make this statement because, despite previous statements to the contrary, there is a factor controlling what goes up in the Red. There is an overarching aesthetic that suppresses grid bolting. Bitch bitch bitch, but when props are due, give them up.

This is a quality that should definitely be maintained at the red. Wehave enough rock that it would only be damaging to bolt closer. Again, the bad example of boulder canyon comes to mind.