RRC Archives

Lateralus wrote:12a is probably accurate for only about 50% or so of the folks who literally jump on that thing.

i'll go with this answer, as it is the one i was waiting on.

Lateralus wrote:As you get shorter that number increases, how much is up to your ego I guess

5.13b? yep.

I'm 5'7". Had to go dynamic to that pocket. I vote 12a. the top half is super easy, and the stuff after the crux is no gimme but it's not that bad.

OK, so now I gotta go try this thing.

bcombs wrote:OK, so now I gotta go try this thing.

ahhh, the plan worked!

i expect a full report back next week from both you and OW. i want height, personal grade reflection, and all!.

pigsteak, you should get in line too for your smack talking, but you probably won't get to vote on the grade b/c you won't send even though you probably are tall enough!

dude, we are the same height, so no whining.....geesh. want to belay me on my onsight?

Definitely doable by people 5'7" or under, just harder. I can span the move, but setting your feet up to make it is hella hard. Not sure if they are using the little pebble for an intermediate, but other then that, there really isn't any other options: Grab underling with one hand and grab small hold five and a half feet away with other. It is a rad route, and it is easy to A0 your way past the really big move.

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Didn't Whitney do it at the 2007 Rendezvous? And several of the other girls competing? Maybe not, but I thought so...

andrew did it.

Brentucky wrote:

bcombs wrote:OK, so now I gotta go try this thing.

ahhh, the plan worked!

i expect a full report back next week from both you and OW. i want height, personal grade reflection, and all!.

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I finally sent this yesterday. First off, what a terrific route. If the last 20 feet were the same type of stone as the start and not mediocre sandy slab this route would by far my favorite route to date. With the sandy slab at the top it's still top 3. I'm 5'10" (barely) and I have a negative ape index. The only move that required a dyno was the "jump" to the jug after the crux move. The crux move and the long move before it were both deadpoints. Up higher, the long move off the right hand dish around the 5th bolt was also full extention but my feet stayed on.

I took more tries to send this route (11) than any other route I've tried to date (of any grade). So, I would say it's solid at the grade. One low percentage move is one thing, but 3 means accuracy counts as much as power and endurance for people like me. Plus if you fall at the 3rd bolt over and over you get alot of tries during a single day.

Like Odub said above, the key is getting the right feet to meet your needs. On this route that sometimes means using higher or lower feet than you like (or no feet), but it's there.

Superb.

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