Art, you need to do exactly the opposite of what you just said here. You need to listen to TTG. She is not a freak of nature but is a seasoned athlete who knows how to train, who is extremely knowledgable about body movement, and who is a great coach. She has helped me tremendously in improving my technique and approach to climbing.caribe wrote:Don't listen to tutu girl. She is an absolute freak of nature. She is going to be sending hard at 100 years old. When I went climbing with her my jaw dropped.
Personal Climbing Renascence, must you be born again?
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captain static
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- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
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the lurkist
- Posts: 2240
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
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captain static
- Posts: 2438
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
Listen to the wise cousel of Obi-Wan. Yoda says, "Climb at the Lode you must."
Instead of pshchoanalyze, I just analyed your spray list. You have plenty of base in the 11 grades. There is no reason you shouldn't be sending more 12's.
Instead of pshchoanalyze, I just analyed your spray list. You have plenty of base in the 11 grades. There is no reason you shouldn't be sending more 12's.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
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the lurkist
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- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
I looked at your spray list, too. No wonder.... Do you expect increases in finger strength, bicep tricep strength, core strength to occur spontaeously?
Keep climbing those 5.11s and you will be a really good 5.11 climber- super.
Sack up- seriously- go get on the eight ball or snooker. that is your trainer.
Keep climbing those 5.11s and you will be a really good 5.11 climber- super.
Sack up- seriously- go get on the eight ball or snooker. that is your trainer.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Normie
In my experience too much projecting without enough mileage on other routes can make you weaker.Wes wrote:caribe, How much of your ego/current grade are you willing to give up to get better? The best way to improve is to "embrace the suck" and start leading routes that you have no chance of doing, but, that will force you to get strong. If you are projecting/sending easy 12's, then start working on hard 12's/easy 13's. Prepare to get shut down always, but after a few months, you will be amazed at how much stronger you will be. You can't just do it every once in a while, it has to become to be the norm for you climbing day.
much of this talk is completely against my approach right now. i hate the idea of getting on a route that I have no chance of doing. I hate falling my way up a route that I don't have business being on. Maybe it's b/c when i see people doing that i think "what are they trying to prove? they have no hope of doing that route. who are they trying to show off to, they look like a freaking idiot." so, maybe I need to stop being such an arrogant shit head and change my perspective on things.
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.
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the lurkist
- Posts: 2240
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
Climb the challenging grade with an attitude of humility and deference.
A Crappy Climber's Creed
"I suck, I am weak, I am unworthy, O' mighty route.
I struggle on you so that I might learn your lessons,
so that my limbs might one day be strong enough to
bring me to your chains.
I give to you my solemn word that I will not
spray of any glory met on your holds,
but will humbly punch the clock day after day
projecting you into the dirt."
A Crappy Climber's Creed
"I suck, I am weak, I am unworthy, O' mighty route.
I struggle on you so that I might learn your lessons,
so that my limbs might one day be strong enough to
bring me to your chains.
I give to you my solemn word that I will not
spray of any glory met on your holds,
but will humbly punch the clock day after day
projecting you into the dirt."
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Normie
I'm mostly in complete disagreement with getting in over your head. The trick is to know when you are ready to step to the next level, and most people don't posess that trait.
I don't allow myself a project unless I've onsighted 3 letter grades below it. 2 projects for 2 onsights. The project grade is open upon 3 onsights.
I've opened the 13c grade, according to my system, but still have only touched one 13c. I'm in no hurry for bigger numbers... I just want to be a better climber.
I began climbing again 2.5 years ago after a layoff of most of 4 years. Up to that point, I'd done 3 or 4 12a sport routes. Now I've onsighted several 12d's. The system seems to work...
I don't allow myself a project unless I've onsighted 3 letter grades below it. 2 projects for 2 onsights. The project grade is open upon 3 onsights.
I've opened the 13c grade, according to my system, but still have only touched one 13c. I'm in no hurry for bigger numbers... I just want to be a better climber.
I began climbing again 2.5 years ago after a layoff of most of 4 years. Up to that point, I'd done 3 or 4 12a sport routes. Now I've onsighted several 12d's. The system seems to work...
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
I think that this is great advice. However, don't find me at the crag getting plastered by a monster route and tell me that I have no business on that wall.Wes wrote:caribe, How much of your ego/current grade are you willing to give up to get better? The best way to improve is to "embrace the suck" and start leading routes that you have no chance of doing, but, that