skipping cruxes

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Horatio Felacio
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Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm

Post by Horatio Felacio »

no, not the no hands on calm like a bomb...the hard part before getting there. there's a rail that basically goes from calm like a bomb over to the .12b to the right.
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MSMITH
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Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2007 6:33 am

Post by MSMITH »

stix wrote:are we talking about the moves up high on cell block? not the long move around the middle with multiple types of beta. there is no way that route is 12c if you go right between the last 2 bolts. harder or not those are the best moves on cell block and twinkie. worth workin the routes that way for sure
No, You're just retarded if you go straight up when all previous ascents have gone to the right and taken (God Help Me) The path of least resistance.
chriss
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Post by chriss »

MSMITH wrote:
stix wrote:are we talking about the moves up high on cell block? not the long move around the middle with multiple types of beta. there is no way that route is 12c if you go right between the last 2 bolts. harder or not those are the best moves on cell block and twinkie. worth workin the routes that way for sure
No, You're just retarded if you go straight up when all previous ascents have gone to the right and taken (God Help Me) The path of least resistance.
I am not sure why that would make you 'retarded'. To me its all about the easiest possible way. I thought it was easier to undercling (with the right feet) up to the two finger pocket. The path of least resistance for one person, will not be the same for another.

There is no right way to do a route.
MSMITH
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Post by MSMITH »

Maybe your right.... But then again, why call the route 11d because he can't do it the other way?
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

I'm completely lost on this Cell Block 6 thing.
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-Horatio
TankAzz
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Post by TankAzz »

ha ha, dana, this is lame.... i say use it!

and i have to weigh in on the draw thing... i am definitely guilty of that, if i am unable to reach the draw to clip it from where everyone else does. i don't climb around cruxes, but i like to give myself the same advantages as everyone else. why should i have to clip off a shitty hold just because taller people can reach the draw from a low hold? i think it just levels the playing field....
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

If there is a large hold which can be reached by traversing more than horatio_fill_in_the_blank feet then it just means the line is of lesser quality. The best lines don't have any "traverse to a hold which may be considered "off"" jazz on them.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
stix
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Post by stix »

i can do the moves out that way no problem. i fell up there and was lookin for good beta for that section and started headin that way on the horizontal, kept goin and did those moves first go (they're easy). it took me a coupla goes off the hang to go straight up to the 2 finger. i thought the line way better, more fun, more continuous, and more accurate for the grade goin straight up so i kept tryin that way till i did it.
"Most men lead lives of quiet desperation." Thoreau
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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak »

SCIN wrote:I'm completely lost on this Cell Block 6 thing.
you and michelle both cheat on that line, SCIN....the original version went straight up to a crappy 2 finger pocket on big moves to the ledge...now, we all traverse right and make the moves...not any easier IMO.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
anticlmber
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Post by anticlmber »

if you do things full-frontal then they will be harder. turn your hips boy.
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