RRC Archives

der uber wrote:Russ sent his project. What's it go at? how runout was it at the top? Sounded tough.

Evil (5.9+) 65 feet (at an undisclosed location - don't even ask right now!) The grade may change as I am not sure what to grade it. Scott suggested 5.9+ Old School, as you better know what you're doing if you are gonna get on it. Did it with 8 pieces (double C4s, 3-6). Yeah, it's wide...

Get up and into a stance and then stem the opening which leads to a few face moves. A few more face moves will lead to a lay back section below a small roof. Pull through the small roof into an off-width section that empties into the upper acute dihedral. Chimney to a ledge, get a stance and then make a couple of easier moves to the anchors.

The upper chimney is about 15 feet tall, but the pro is in the back so if you fall you're gonna know it. It's not 'really' what one would consider run out, but it sure feels like it in the off width. The big grunts and scream were probably me thrashing through the OW before melting into a puddle in the dihedral, and the elation of pulling the final moves out of the chimney!

Nice work Russ!

I like it already

what, is pig trying to make a buck consulting grades? 5.8

I am looking at a two pitch route that would be an X if done ground up. I have thought of a method to do this route safely but I would need to rappel in to place a couple pieces that will have cord on them to hang the clip where it needs to be. Kind of like pre-place gear but off route. Would this be a silly game? It's one of the most audacious looking lines I have seen in the gorge just nobody has manned up to do it (close to 200ft tall). It zig zags a little but averages out to be a straight line. It has everything from technical face, to offwidth, to dihedral, to pocketed and overhanging a little. I guess I have already committed to it but just wondering what others think. I'll post photos of this potential epic.

Sounds silly if bolting is legal there... I am guessing it is not? If you are going to rap in and place off-route gear with long slings it is sport climbing anyway, and will never be repeated in that state. Better just to bolt it for others (if legal) rather than pleasuring yourself... or pleasure yourself if desired, then bolt it. Ground-up hand drilling from hooks is way better style than the rigging project you described IMO... I mean, if it's legal.

Nothing wrong with mIxed routes. Place a bolt where needed if you can't place gear from a stance.

Do what inspires you...

Do what inspires you man.

do what inspires me man..screw your own feelings.

btw, I like bolts.

Check it out... Pigsteak sent a 5.10a/b trad line yesterday. He sewed it up and whined a little (don't we all at times), but clipped the chains nonetheless! Awesome send Mr Pigsteak!

Are you selling your rack now?