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It wasn't dogs, or morons that shut down the crag. It was utilization and impact by everyone... if you ever climbed there, you were part of why it got shut down. Owners decided they wanted to see if they can restore the crags back to some of its former condition. However, I would tend to disagree upon the significance of the impact, but they put up the cash for it so it is their call. I just hope that no one else is gonna step up to "save" more crags for us climbers by keeping it out of the "wrong hands".

Interesting to read about how Grant himself tells of climbing and most likely bolting at Roadside without a clue of knowing who owned the land, yet cries foul when someone else does the same...

In 1984 Greg Smith and Ron Snider told me they had found a new climbing area and finished a route they named “Roadside Attraction”. Martin Hackworth and I immediately visited the area and did what was perhaps the second ascent of the route along with several new ones. Since then the number of routes and visitors has grown exponentially as bolting and sport climbing came into vogue and Roadside has become a regular stop for climbers visiting the area.
Back then we had no idea who owned this land. Now we do... Take care of it.

- Grant Stephens (2007)

Yet no sign or rules were ever posted to my knowledge stating who owned it. The guidebook only states that the land is privately owned but does not mention by who or GFNP and futhermore doesn't state any "rules"...

Closure was their right, but I can still disagree with how and why it was done.
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worst thing for access is when a climber buys a crag. Kinda smart of them to get labor resources to improve the property then kick everybody out afterwards though - I admire them for that. I wonder if I could get my house reroofed and allow access to my home gym ...then whaaaa whaaaaa everybody out!!!!!

"If we own it they cant close it". What a load of shit grant. I guess he owns it though so its his call, whatever.

Frustrating when so many climbers have offered to do whatever it takes to help the crag they love yet he still feels the need to deny access. I fail to see how a patch of eroded dirt at the base of a climb is some huge ecological disaster. Wasn't the entire gorge cut down for lumber a hundred years ago? Seems to have recovered from that....

EricDorsey wrote:"If we own it they cant close it".

Abuse it--lose it.

toad857 wrote:

EricDorsey wrote:"If we own it they cant close it".

Abuse it--lose it.

Yep, abuse their rules and they should close it... Except they never posted the rules and when they climbed there they didn't give a fuck then...

times have changed. everyone knows that.

I agree, though--a sign should have been put up the day they bought the place. It was negligent to not do so. Maybe this could have all been avoided, even.... but that does no good now.

I would like to hear an update from the land owners on all of this. Do they plan on keeping it closed permanantly or just temporarily? Would be nice to open it back up on a contigent basis next year, put up a sign, get the word out, and maybe we could come to a resolution that appeases everyone. I guess a warning would of been nice to have instead of just closing it.

the rules are common sense appreciation for the land:
They don't have any posted, but I bet I could come up with a few:

No dogs.
No children.
No smoking.
No profanity.
No new routes.
No fixed gear. (That means you and your project draws brah)
Carry out all toilet paper and poop. Please do not even think of burying your crap at the crag.
No groups bigger than 4.
Don't top rope thru the fixed gear.

Pretty basic, and broken every single day at the Red by entitled, self absorbed climbers. every. single. day.

maybe we could have a great big trail day and put a lot of resources towards improving the place and increasing its value

toad857 wrote:

EricDorsey wrote:"If we own it they cant close it".

Abuse it--lose it.

Abused by climbers by building a nice access trail, stairs, and bars to prevent erosion? Sorry but dirt at the base of a climb pales in comparison to the destruction caused by drunk campers every weekend, the logging industry 100 years ago, or oil companies today... Its not the fragile desert southwest, 10 years from now the jungle will take back over and I fail to see how having dirt at the base of the wall is some huge ecological disaster, give me a break.