RRC Archives

well, i'll get shut down on happy trails this weekend. again

clif wrote:well, i'll get shut down on happy trails this weekend. again

I really hope that the recommendation of some blonde-headed douchebag is the reason you climbed that route. I also really hope you get shut down on it, and enjoy it, again!

so much it's embarrassing. thanks.

...Gumby unable to pass the 2nd bolt on 10c at Military by moonbeam. I agree to finish it and hang them TR... As i arrive at 2nd bolt i hear "hold on a second", looking down i see my belayer already has removed the grigri stating "had it on backwards". Scolded him and left.

You mean that route didn't have an autobelay???

hypro wrote:...Gumby unable to pass the 2nd bolt on 10c at Military by moonbeam. I agree to finish it and hang them TR... As i arrive at 2nd bolt i hear "hold on a second", looking down i see my belayer already has removed the grigri stating "had it on backwards". Scolded him and left.

so who was the gumby..the belayer or you for not checking?

I was at Bibliotech wall this weekend... I saw 3 ground falls from one party. The first was right after I clipped the 4th bolt the guy next to me botches on the way to clip #3 and decks because his belayer is "too light" (i.e. has too much slack out)... The solution was not to switch belayers, but having the other guy in the party hold his harness down as decker boy goes big again.

Deck # 2 no stick clip + on a route over your head = deck before first bolt... nice (lack of) spot pal.

Deck #3, guy gets to bolt #2 pulls out all kinds of slack to clip from the tiny crimps below the clipping holds...

As we were packing up to get the heck out of there Ms. non stick clipper takes a massive ride from about 5 bolts up to almost clobber my partner due to a lot of extra slack in the system. By the way none of them were hurt, or phased by this.

cramacam wrote:By the way none of them were hurt, or phased by this.

Darwinism isn't doing the trick anymore.

cramacam wrote:Deck #3, guy gets to bolt #2 pulls out all kinds of slack to clip from the tiny crimps below the clipping holds....

I swear, this is the one that gets people in the most trouble. Usually they are scared to death to be on lead anyway, clipping low from bad holds, pulling out a ton of slack because they are low, wobble, deck. I'll be glad when people quit with the idea that you have to lead. Do it once on TR first to figure out where you would clip. Or, get stronger. But even then, the same thing would happen only the route would be harder.

gripster wrote: Darwinism isn't doing the trick anymore.

Most unfortunately, natural selection can only take place of over several generations. Hopefully these folks won't have any idiotic kids at the crag a few years down the road. Speaking of idiots, check this out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF75M_KhHms

Do we really wonder why there are so many accidents in the Red?