The ongoing weekend idiot report

[pigsteak]

and the start of dude is hard, so I digress....

[Brentucky]

TR'ing is dangerous. Let this be a lesson. Never, ever leave the sharp end.

That's why I TR and lead at the same time, I like to live on the edge.

[ahab]

asdf

[ahab]

The only way a belayer could prevent that from happening is using a static rope. There was over a hundred feet of rope out. You are going to have 4 feet of stretch even if you cinch it up as much as possible.

I know what your saying and i know im being harsh. But YOU know your belayer could have done some more cinching than he did.It was a hard hit. You bounced up like it was all cool but the look in your face said it all . like what the hell your ya doing
But im nobody you guys laughed about it so i should not care if you dont.

IMO climbing can be safe and still push your limits

easy fellas, let's not turn one of the most interesting (if not popular) threads on rrc.com into another "...so this is how you use a gri gri correctly" thread.
back to the idiot reportings. please.

[TradWanker]

asdf

wtf

[jrathfon]

back to the idiot reportings. please.

We were enjoying a nice pleasant chilly morning at Pebble Beach this past Sunday (my partner was getting in a few climbs before the 11am RRGCC meeting). We'd been at Pebble Beach for about an hour, and were around the corner up on the ledge for Big Money when all we could hear for the next hour was SCREAMING. Some shouts of joy, some shouts of TAKE, TAKE, TAKE!!!, what the!, TAKE!! Not really knowing what was going on, and just about to run the trail back down to the cars, we had to traverse the environmental impact area. I got down first and threw my bag down to grab a bar and check the time. In the time it took me to unclip my waist belt and throw my pack to the ground the situation went like this:

Guy on Environmental Impact: TAKE
Guy on Reserved Seating: TAKE
EI: TAKE!
RS: TAKE!
EI: TAKE!!
RS: TAKE!!
EI: TAKE!!!
RS: TAKE!!, CLIPPING, TAKE, SLACK-DAMNIT!, TAKE!!!

I look up, RS: at the 3rd bolt, took him about 45 minutes to get there, was racked up with oh, say, 20 quickdraws, and an old hard-shell helmet to boot, super prepared. Around the base: about 7 family members, a few sporting the baseball hat/old helmet combo (while 30ft from the base of anything), blue jeans and cigarettes.

EI: Climber was 10ft off the ground, hanging on his 2nd cam, likewise had been on route for about 30 minutes. His belayer: ~12 ft back, granted the 1rst cam was placed at 5 ft, so the rope's angle was a clean 90 degrees to the first cam, or say rather horizontal to the ground. Never fear though, his belayer, equipped with helmet (thank jeebus), had the most awesomest belay stance I have ever seen, prepped and poised to take the impact from a linebacker, wish I had a picture.

With that, we ran out of there!

[ahab]

that's more like it.
this sounds like a duo we ran across out at pistol ridge one day. he wasn't by chance wearing fingerless gloves & tennies while climbing was he?

[pigsteak]

elitists....

[ahab]

elitists....

so says the, "it's not climbing unless it's 5.12" man.

[pigsteak]

elitists....

so says the, "it's not climbing unless it's 5.12" man.

I did not say that. I said "you are not a real climber until you can climb 12's"

and as my old partner at home used to say, you have not sent a route until you climb it three times clean..the first two may have been temperature dependent or lucky..three times you own it....

I don't mkae this stuff up..it is in the rulebook.