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hey crank...day late and dollar short...krampus already bouted me on that one...

meadows, I vehemently deny all alleagations to the contrary.

does it count if you grab the draws to clip in???

great- Im late and broke, sounds like a normal american teenager

I am appaled that people actually use stick clips.

I only count the redpoint (i.e. spray on rrc.com) if I hang (or clip) both draws when the route is one number grade below my limit. If it is at my limit I need to hang or clip at least one. Stupid I know, it's just the rule I made for myself.

Lander wrote:

rjackson wrote: If hitting the chains, as opposed to clipping, doesn't constitute a send, that would invalidate the fa of some of the reds hardest routes. Ramsey jumped at the chains on at least one of his fa sends in the madness cave. In fact, jumping from the anchors on the redpoint is a longstanding tradition at the lode.

Thats a great practice for those bolts. I love knowing that undue stress is put on them as a tradition.

You can settle for a redpoint if you are a sell out. I prefer ownage of a route. You own the route when you up and down climb without a hang. You do it with the gear, stripping it on the way down, but you know you could have solo'd it.
High standard, you ask? Well yes, I suppose so, but then that is the way I roll.

first time i ever saw the "gregs was at roadside and martin went up down, up down all the tens cleaning, as he went; headphones on, no shirt, and his trademark dick-danglers. i thought he was euro as it came. turns out he's a bad-ass from indiana.

that was my first experience with owning routes.

bcombs wrote:it's just the rule I made for myself.

You're hitting it on the head - there is no "officially" in climbing. The painful, soul-wrenching, beret wearing, Existentialist truth is that it's totally up to you to make up the rules for yourself. There is no Commissioner, there is no International Rule Book. If tapping the chains and peeling is good enough for you, fine. If you need to "own" the route, great. If you never lead and have fun TRing, good for you!

Personally, pre-hung draws are fine for me, and I like to clip both and hang on long enough for my belayer to take - basically to be fairly in control at the anchors. When I sent Breakfast Burrito, I was pumped as hell and yarded on a quicklink at the anchors to get a better hold/stance to hang the draws and clip - half-assed by my standards, but I "gave" it to myself.

Go climb a bunch and figure out what game is the most fun for you and play that way (but don't try to impose it on other climbers!)

Two is for topropes if the draws are staying on.