weekend report

Post by **Artsay** » Thu Apr 17, 2003 3:03 pm

drifter - I've heard folks say it's a hard 12a.

Post by **captain static** » Thu Apr 17, 2003 3:36 pm

I climbed at Eden Park Reservoir Wall on Sun. evening. At least I was climbing outside instead of the gym. There were two other groups there TRing. After warming up I worked about 150' of "Ohio's Longest, Hardest Climb". Started just before the first crux section. At the secong crux section nearest the parking lot, which is so because the feet are very polished, all of a sudden my toe popped through my old pair of Anasazi Velcros. Now I am down to just two old pairs of Miura's. Can't wait for my new pair of Miura's to arrive. So now I am looking for a new pair of bouldering shoes. That new Climbing Magazine has a shoe review in it also. Looking forward to a three day down at the Red the weekend after Easter.

Post by **Huggybone** » Thu Apr 17, 2003 6:09 pm

Hell yeah. This is more like it. MORE SPRAY!
Spray is great. It gets me pumped up about climbing. People who hate spray are just insecure. It don't matter if you climb 5.6 or 13b:

SPRAY ON!

Post by **Power2U** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 4:00 pm

SCIN,

Thanks. It is when you have great days or wekends that make all that training worth it. I did not do the second pitch of Strevels but am interested. If it is anything like he top of Way Up Yonder I am sure it will be great. As for Strivels first pitch it feels like v5 to me which would be 12B.... compared to Jersey and Infectious it feels at least as hard if not harder, and those are both sold, relatively short 12b's. Have you ever heard of anyone doing the upper part of Strevels. Now that I have done Pine and Up Yonder the only things I have left at Roadside are Eric & Brians Excellent Adventure, Sand, the top of Strevels and the Slab routes back around near Andromeda Strain. I am curuious about the 3 lines mentioned above and will likely try them some time this year. Let me know your thoughts on those three lines or what you have heard.

Post by **Power2U** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 4:03 pm

drifter,

What are you working on at LRC? I have climbed there a bunch and know the Canyon pretty well. As for Strivels my vote is 12b on the first pitch, see previous post. It coulb be like most routes... all are not created equally, and that this one just doesn;t suit me and; thereore, feels harder!

Post by **chester** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 6:09 pm

http://www.stephcarson.com/tripreports.html

read at your own risk...

Post by **tomdarch** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 6:57 pm

Hey Chester - that's a great trip report! Too bad there aren't any shots of you on your harrowing leads!

Post by **chester** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 7:29 pm

thank goodness there are no photos...

Post by **Danny** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 9:10 pm

Chester, really nice pics and report. Way to go on BTFB and Calypso II!

Post by **ynot** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 10:15 pm

Thats so cool,Chester. You got pics of all the flowers I admired on the same day and worked them onto the page.What is that funny curly plant?That day was the fist time I had noticed one. I can relate to the lead head thing.At first I kept making excuses,and only lately,after having a really "on" day leading realized that it was all a confidence issue.
Trip reports are great,The last one walking down the trail is in the perfect spot.