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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:21 am
by B.J.
TradMike wrote:Stick clipping your way up a route is like masturbation. It's good every once and awhile but just don't let anyone see you doing it.

A different spin on a quote from a 60 year old who I witnessed soloing. Just substitute stick clipping with soloing.
You witnessed a 60 year old "soloing?" Sicko. Keep your masturbatory voyeurism exploits to yourself.

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:27 am
by seapickle
you have a masturbatorium???

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:31 am
by B.J.
caribe wrote:
512OW wrote:
KD wrote:its kinda looked down on but something everybody has probably done. kinda like wackin'
Wackin is looked down on?
Yes, wackin is looked down on by you when you are wackin.
You mean you don't hang upside down by your ankles when you do it?

Back on-topic. I'm on the fence with stick clipping the first bolt. If the groundfall is going to be particularly nasty I'd say stick clip for safety. But on the other hand I want to say that if the groundfall is going to be particularly nasty then 1.) don't fall, or 2.) don't climb it. So I dunno.

But this whole stick clipping all the way up deal is bullshit, IMO. If you want to do it, fine. Who am I to stop you? I think your style sucks, but to each his own.

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:56 am
by rhunt
in that case no hang doggin anymore. I mean hanging on bolts to figure out moves or stick clipping up to figure out moves is "bad style". I don't want to over hear any of you say, "if I don't have the endurance I'll just go bolt to bolt all the way up" - that's bad style.

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:27 am
by caribe
Stick the first bolt to get ON a route in some cases. Stick some other bolts to get OFF a route.

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:33 am
by merrick
the best climber in the world is the one having the most fun - alex lowe

do whatever you want, don't get hurt and don't screw up access for others.

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:47 am
by Josephine
i tend to climb with people that are better than me (which is most everyone!). that way if the stick clip i have isn't long enough to reach the first bolt then i can still have it clipped :)

i have yet to stick clip myself OFF a route - but i'm sure it's just a matter of time...

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:54 am
by tania
I think it's bad style for people to criticize the way others climb..just as long as the person is not endangering themselves or others. In that case I think it would be helpful and responsible for more experienced climbers to jump in there and give advice in terms of climbing safety. We all have to start out somewhere.

I agree with Wes in that why is it acceptable to stick clip up 13s+ but not anything below that?? Everyone has their limits and "projects" and has a way that they work them and work out the moves. Maybe someone is working a route and they know a fall at at certain point can most likey lead to an injury and pull up the stick clip to avoid a bad situation and work out the sequence till they have it solid. Maybe a whole group's limit is 5.10a but they've heard about this really cool 5.10b so one person stick clips their way up to set a top rope up for everyone else and it leads to a really awesome, fun climbing day.

I'm very fortunate to have someone to climb with who's been on just about every route at the Red and can hang draws and set up top ropes for me so I can work routes. I've just started leading and am working on my confidence to lead things that are at my current limit. I have yet to go up to something I have never climbed and hang draws, lead. I'm generally not too afraid to take lead falls, but why put that extra wear on the rope/draws if i don't have to?? A lot of new climbers don't have the advantages I do and just do whatever they can. Give them a break.

That being said I gladly stick clip most first bolts and on occasion second bolts if it keeps me safer. :D

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 3:52 pm
by JR
Well said Tania. But of course you agree with Wes, that is so cute.

The ironic thing about this stick clipping debate is that I generally see more experienced climbers doing the stick clipping shenanigans. Leave those gumbies alone.

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:33 pm
by merrick
yea stick clipping is an advanced skill. it is one thing to hang a draw, but to put a rope on a draw, take a rope off a draw, stick clip up a route, remove a draw, etc.....that is only for advanced climbers. :wink: