Muao Dib wrote:Hey Yoda, You must have a really small cock if you have to prove your maniless by down rating every Red River Route at once.
Ratings are for gumbies anyway
-
Guest
I would like to think Yoda is joking. Well, I would like to think so, but maybe he does had a small cock. Anyway, Yoda, have you been on any of the testy trad routes, like Welcome to Ole Kentucky (13) or maybe some of the super slabby hard sport routes, like Hemisfear (11d) or whatever that one is at Pebble Beach? If you can call those 10d with a pump, you are better than I am. The RED is HUGE!! It's probably one of the most expansive climbing areas in the US, and if you limit yourself to climbing the over hanging pockets, you're missing out.
From climbky.
http://www.climbkentucky.com/phpBB/view ... 50&forum=8
Author Another look at ratings?
Wes
moderator
Joined: May 28, 2001
Posts: 1304
From: Lexington
Posted: 2001-12-12 11:19
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&s ... entric.net
I thought this was kinda cool.
Wes
_________________
The early bird might get the worm,
but the 2nd mouse gets the cheese.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gretchen
freak
Joined: May 29, 2001
Posts: 705
From: Cincinnati
Posted: 2001-12-12 11:34
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Man that was funny Just hoping to stay in the 8-10 range in a bit different of a sequence
[ This Message was edited by: Gretchen on 2001-12-12 11:35 ]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
antisloper
junkie
Joined: May 26, 2001
Posts: 272
From: Erlanger, KY
Posted: 2001-12-12 11:40
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
that's it, i'm adopting this system. it's the only one that makes sense. you can apply it across the board equally for trad, sport, aid and bouldering.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CincySam
freak
Joined: Jul 09, 2001
Posts: 838
From: The glacier-swept seafloor
Posted: 2001-12-12 11:54
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I love the comment about the bosses's wife.
But really, that's awesome....what better way to grade a climb than whether or not you enjoyed it? Forget how hard it was!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ritwik
bbs-addict
Joined: May 29, 2001
Posts: 166
From: West Lafayette, IN
Posted: 2001-12-12 12:20
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A practical guide to applying the V-system
Copyright 1998 John Sherman
http://www.fishproducts.com/powerandrubber/grades.html
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wes
moderator
Joined: May 28, 2001
Posts: 1304
From: Lexington
Posted: 2002-06-12 21:35
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another look at ratings from Klem Loskot:
Udo told me a story about how he witnessed two young Polar Bears in the Salt Lake City Zoo. Their cage had a waterfall that was fed from a pool in a sort of balcony about 3 meters above the water. First the polar bears threw a ball up on this balcony till. (They didnÕt throw very well, so it took them a while before it rested on the water.) Then they waited for the current to take the ball to the edge of the waterfall where it stayed. The polar bears could (barely) jump to the edge of this balcony and hang on. They spent the following hour or so jumping on the balcony and trying to climb (sometimes with heelhooks!) to where the ball was lying on the water. Now they tried to hang on with one hand and reach out for the ball with the other. Most of the times they were running out of juice and fell backwards into the water. The (human) crowd got really excited by watching the polar bears try and shouted at them to psyche the bears up. This seemed to help and finally they had their ball back. Of course they threw the ball again and the game started to repeat itself... At one point, the polar bears will have the whole thing wired. They will throw the ball so precisely that it rests on the water first try and immediately succeed in jumping and climbing for it. Hopefully the zoo management will give them a sloping edge of the balcony than, our hang the balcony higher to make the jump harder, but most likely the polar bears have to invent a new, more difficult game. This is what I would do. I want to do the highest jump and the hardest climb in my cage. Primarily IÔm not interested in how hard this might be for the other polar bears. Okay, itÕs interesting to see the others try, sometimes we get "Big Toni" from the ice if the jump is really high, or skinny Markus if the holds on the balcony are really bad. But to put a small number on so much fun seems to be a bit ridiculous to me. In my head, everything is clear: A "grauzone" of routes and boulders that (hopefully) have been pleasantly difficult, but where I never had a doubt that I eventually would succeed. And than the problems that kept me up at night, which I had to try a couple of days, always doubtful if they are really possible for me. These things I will call B1 from now on. And than the limit. If I eventually succeed on these IÕm not even sure if IÕll be ever able to do them again, since too many uncontrollable factors are involved. Even I donÕt know all the ingredients of the luck-opportunity-mixture that allows me to climb these things. These climbs I call B3. I cannot imagine that I will have more than a handful of B3Ôs throughout my life. Maybe somebody repeats my problem, maybe I can do it again or I just get doubtful about if it is really so hard... anyway I might downrate it to B2 to make new room for B3Ôs.
When climbing with friends, of course I will still tell them how hard I think a problem is in the traditional sense, I just donÔt find this interesting for me anymore. IÕm going climbing and not running on tracks and I realized that I canÕt find objective measurements for an activity so diverse. One last word about Pierre BollingerÕs repeat and downrating of "Muadib" (rated 8b bloc by Toni Lamprecht after the first ascent, confirmed by Klem after the 2nd ascent, than downrated to 7c+ by Pierre Bollinger after the third ascent). If I could do Muadib that easily, I would have added the obvious and difficult sit-down start to it to have some kind of challenge. IÕm sure thatÕs what the polar bears had done. But sometimes humans climb for different motives than polar bears, don't they?
Klem Loskot
http://www.nadventure.com/hardestmoves.html
_________________
The early bird might get the worm,
but the 2nd mouse gets the cheese.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tach
social poster
Joined: May 30, 2001
Posts: 60 Posted: 2002-06-13 19:07
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Did anyone consider shooting at the polar bears?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bp_968
freak
Joined: Jun 26, 2001
Posts: 692
From: Some nasty dark hole.
Posted: 2002-06-17 12:16
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Klem rocks. I hope to someday climb half has as hard as he does.
Ben
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
merrick
freak
Joined: May 29, 2001
Posts: 791
From: Chicago, IL - west siiiide
Posted: 2002-06-17 13:48
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
hey ben,
isn't klem's whole point saying that it is not how hard you climb but how hard you push yourself to your personal limit?
so didn't you really mean to say, 'I hope to push myself half as hard as Klem pushes himself.'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bp_968
freak
Joined: Jun 26, 2001
Posts: 692
From: Some nasty dark hole.
Posted: 2002-06-17 20:03
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nope. I said "Klem rocks. I hope to someday climb half has as hard as he does.".
Did something scramble the way it looked on your monitor?
Ben
http://www.climbkentucky.com/phpBB/view ... 50&forum=8
Author Another look at ratings?
Wes
moderator
Joined: May 28, 2001
Posts: 1304
From: Lexington
Posted: 2001-12-12 11:19
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&s ... entric.net
I thought this was kinda cool.
Wes
_________________
The early bird might get the worm,
but the 2nd mouse gets the cheese.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gretchen
freak
Joined: May 29, 2001
Posts: 705
From: Cincinnati
Posted: 2001-12-12 11:34
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Man that was funny Just hoping to stay in the 8-10 range in a bit different of a sequence
[ This Message was edited by: Gretchen on 2001-12-12 11:35 ]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
antisloper
junkie
Joined: May 26, 2001
Posts: 272
From: Erlanger, KY
Posted: 2001-12-12 11:40
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
that's it, i'm adopting this system. it's the only one that makes sense. you can apply it across the board equally for trad, sport, aid and bouldering.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CincySam
freak
Joined: Jul 09, 2001
Posts: 838
From: The glacier-swept seafloor
Posted: 2001-12-12 11:54
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I love the comment about the bosses's wife.
But really, that's awesome....what better way to grade a climb than whether or not you enjoyed it? Forget how hard it was!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ritwik
bbs-addict
Joined: May 29, 2001
Posts: 166
From: West Lafayette, IN
Posted: 2001-12-12 12:20
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A practical guide to applying the V-system
Copyright 1998 John Sherman
http://www.fishproducts.com/powerandrubber/grades.html
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wes
moderator
Joined: May 28, 2001
Posts: 1304
From: Lexington
Posted: 2002-06-12 21:35
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another look at ratings from Klem Loskot:
Udo told me a story about how he witnessed two young Polar Bears in the Salt Lake City Zoo. Their cage had a waterfall that was fed from a pool in a sort of balcony about 3 meters above the water. First the polar bears threw a ball up on this balcony till. (They didnÕt throw very well, so it took them a while before it rested on the water.) Then they waited for the current to take the ball to the edge of the waterfall where it stayed. The polar bears could (barely) jump to the edge of this balcony and hang on. They spent the following hour or so jumping on the balcony and trying to climb (sometimes with heelhooks!) to where the ball was lying on the water. Now they tried to hang on with one hand and reach out for the ball with the other. Most of the times they were running out of juice and fell backwards into the water. The (human) crowd got really excited by watching the polar bears try and shouted at them to psyche the bears up. This seemed to help and finally they had their ball back. Of course they threw the ball again and the game started to repeat itself... At one point, the polar bears will have the whole thing wired. They will throw the ball so precisely that it rests on the water first try and immediately succeed in jumping and climbing for it. Hopefully the zoo management will give them a sloping edge of the balcony than, our hang the balcony higher to make the jump harder, but most likely the polar bears have to invent a new, more difficult game. This is what I would do. I want to do the highest jump and the hardest climb in my cage. Primarily IÔm not interested in how hard this might be for the other polar bears. Okay, itÕs interesting to see the others try, sometimes we get "Big Toni" from the ice if the jump is really high, or skinny Markus if the holds on the balcony are really bad. But to put a small number on so much fun seems to be a bit ridiculous to me. In my head, everything is clear: A "grauzone" of routes and boulders that (hopefully) have been pleasantly difficult, but where I never had a doubt that I eventually would succeed. And than the problems that kept me up at night, which I had to try a couple of days, always doubtful if they are really possible for me. These things I will call B1 from now on. And than the limit. If I eventually succeed on these IÕm not even sure if IÕll be ever able to do them again, since too many uncontrollable factors are involved. Even I donÕt know all the ingredients of the luck-opportunity-mixture that allows me to climb these things. These climbs I call B3. I cannot imagine that I will have more than a handful of B3Ôs throughout my life. Maybe somebody repeats my problem, maybe I can do it again or I just get doubtful about if it is really so hard... anyway I might downrate it to B2 to make new room for B3Ôs.
When climbing with friends, of course I will still tell them how hard I think a problem is in the traditional sense, I just donÔt find this interesting for me anymore. IÕm going climbing and not running on tracks and I realized that I canÕt find objective measurements for an activity so diverse. One last word about Pierre BollingerÕs repeat and downrating of "Muadib" (rated 8b bloc by Toni Lamprecht after the first ascent, confirmed by Klem after the 2nd ascent, than downrated to 7c+ by Pierre Bollinger after the third ascent). If I could do Muadib that easily, I would have added the obvious and difficult sit-down start to it to have some kind of challenge. IÕm sure thatÕs what the polar bears had done. But sometimes humans climb for different motives than polar bears, don't they?
Klem Loskot
http://www.nadventure.com/hardestmoves.html
_________________
The early bird might get the worm,
but the 2nd mouse gets the cheese.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tach
social poster
Joined: May 30, 2001
Posts: 60 Posted: 2002-06-13 19:07
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Did anyone consider shooting at the polar bears?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bp_968
freak
Joined: Jun 26, 2001
Posts: 692
From: Some nasty dark hole.
Posted: 2002-06-17 12:16
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Klem rocks. I hope to someday climb half has as hard as he does.
Ben
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
merrick
freak
Joined: May 29, 2001
Posts: 791
From: Chicago, IL - west siiiide
Posted: 2002-06-17 13:48
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
hey ben,
isn't klem's whole point saying that it is not how hard you climb but how hard you push yourself to your personal limit?
so didn't you really mean to say, 'I hope to push myself half as hard as Klem pushes himself.'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bp_968
freak
Joined: Jun 26, 2001
Posts: 692
From: Some nasty dark hole.
Posted: 2002-06-17 20:03
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nope. I said "Klem rocks. I hope to someday climb half has as hard as he does.".
Did something scramble the way it looked on your monitor?
Ben
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda