new guidebook

Post by **Shamis** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:36 pm

SCIN wrote:
Shamis wrote:
pigsteak wrote:Shamis...
it was called "god's right hand man"

rhunt, you unlocked the secret to the send..all glory is yours.
no, it was like 'route equipped by someguywhodidntsend'
Damn, way to respect the people who build our playground.

First of all, this was mainly just to irritate pigsteak, who deserves to be picked on as much as possible.

I found the example I was looking for. in the guidebook: Ultra-perm FA: Dave Hume, Equipper: Chris Martin.

The route setters definitely deserve credit. But FA seems like a misnomer, if only because we don't specify FFA. Guidebooks for trad areas often have a FA and a FFA listed to indicate who did the route first, and who sent it clean first.

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 10:07 pm

No worries Shamis...since SCIN is a 15th degree black belt, I pay him to throw rocks at you punks who try to disrespect me, knowing that in my old age I might hurt my shoulder throwing said rocks....

Too sad for you, the whole FA, FFA, FNA, FHA, redpoint, pinkpoint, flash, lycra or painter pants, hang yer draws, pre place, stick clip, mixed route, choss, sandbag, over hyped no dogs ban was covered in my earlier Pigsteak Corollary 3-2d. All rulings are final, so you have no say in the process. Thank you for your feedback, and please donate at the door.

Post by **Shamis** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 11:37 pm

pigsteak wrote:Too sad for you, the whole FA, FFA, FNA, FHA, redpoint, pinkpoint, flash, lycra or painter pants, hang yer draws, pre place, stick clip, mixed route, choss, sandbag, over hyped no dogs ban was covered in my earlier Pigsteak Corollary 3-2d. All rulings are final, so you have no say in the process. Thank you for your feedback, and please donate at the door.

equipper

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:06 am

Shamis wrote:
SCIN wrote:
Shamis wrote:
no, it was like 'route equipped by someguywhodidntsend'
Damn, way to respect the people who build our playground.
First of all, this was mainly just to irritate pigsteak, who deserves to be picked on as much as possible.

I found the example I was looking for. in the guidebook: Ultra-perm FA: Dave Hume, Equipper: Chris Martin.

The route setters definitely deserve credit. But FA seems like a misnomer, if only because we don't specify FFA. Guidebooks for trad areas often have a FA and a FFA listed to indicate who did the route first, and who sent it clean first.

That FA versus FFA stuff is lame. So if I go out, find a crack, and try to climb it only pulling on gear the entire way because I suck then should I be the FA of that crack? Nope. I should actually, if anything, be listed as FF (First Failure).

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:10 am

SCIN, all Pigsteak Corollaries apply to you as well. Please refrain from stirring the pot without proper authorization.

But I do have one question....aid routes in Yosemite...once they go free, shouldn't we delete the old fart who "pulled on gear"..Warren Harding would be amused.

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:32 am

Those lines are different and were put up with a different mentality. They approached those lines as aid lines, or lines to the top of a 2000-3000 foot chunk of stone. Some dude in Kentucky flailing his way up a 50 foot 5.11 crack and yarding on a cam wouldn't exactly qualify as an FFA to me.

Post by **Shamis** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:47 am

SCIN wrote:Some dude in Kentucky flailing his way up a 50 foot 5.11 crack and yarding on a cam wouldn't exactly qualify as an FFA to me.

That wouldn't qualify him for a FFA anywhere, anytime.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:54 am

why not? are you two rock snobs now? is 200 foot tall enough for an aid ascent? 500?..if the locals here can change the meaning of FA, then I think a 15 foot stone can have an aid ascent that is worthy.

the whole terminology has been dumbed down....what is happening to us?

Post by **charlie** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 12:00 pm

pigsteak wrote:......the whole terminology has been dumbed down....what is happening to us?

Pink point anyone?

"Do you actually realize how much harder it is when you have to hang the draws?" This was an actual conversation I remember having recently.

Post by **Shamis** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 12:02 pm

pigsteak wrote:why not? are you two rock snobs now? is 200 foot tall enough for an aid ascent? 500?..if the locals here can change the meaning of FA, then I think a 15 foot stone can have an aid ascent that is worthy.

the whole terminology has been dumbed down....what is happening to us?

I blame brain eating amoeba's.

What we really need is a FFFA: First Free Fatass Ascent. Only eligible for climbers over 200 pounds.