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Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 2:06 am
by 512OW
TradMike wrote: Everything will go all cams in the Red much faster and easier.
Not a chance. You obviously haven't led too terribly many trad routes in the Red...
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 4:48 pm
by JR
flint wrote:
I would tend to think stoppers and other passives create pressure on a wider surface, and there for is better for soft rock.
[/quote]
I don't think this is correct.
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:03 pm
by TradMike
512OW wrote:TradMike wrote: Everything will go all cams in the Red much faster and easier.
Not a chance. You obviously haven't led too terribly many trad routes in the Red...
Name a couple that can't. We will see.
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:05 pm
by Wes
Jack the ripper is one I would really not want to lead with out some stoppers.
TradMike wrote:
Name a couple that can't. We will see.
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:15 pm
by Wes
And synconicity as well. Would not be a fun lead without some stoppers. At. All. Unless you don't mind pretty much free soloing most of it.
Wes wrote:Jack the ripper is one I would really not want to lead with out some stoppers.
TradMike wrote:
Name a couple that can't. We will see.
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:25 pm
by pigsteak
andrew and I climbed synchronicity without stoppers..ask him about the passive pro he placed that blew
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:39 pm
by Yasmeen
I've fallen more than once on cams on both Jack the Ripper and Synchronicity where the old schoolers would place passive pro, and nothing's ever ripped.
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:41 pm
by rhunt
yes I agree being 100% active or 100% passive is not the way to go, it's much better to be versatile, the best of both worlds.
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:54 pm
by Andrew
knotted cord is the only way to climb synchronicity.
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 7:22 pm
by Wes
Yasmeen, So, you led both of them with only cams? I have no doubt that it can be done, but "faster and easier" as Mike said? I don't think so, and not safer either.