RRC Archives

Well, duh. But what I'm asking is what makes a good day or a bad day? I know with you it's simply a matter of the gooba spirits and what the wiki priestess is doing but for those of us without so many superstitions it's a matter of science.

Its all science dude. It just matters what you believe.

Me, I believe in powergel. And Redbull. And Vanilla icecream with chocolate syrup.

By the way, the wiki priestess is no longer around. She tried Chef Boyardee beef ravioli, changed her vegan ways, and now she runs a ranch out near Vedauwoo. In fact, those leather chaps Michelle bought for you for Xmas were straight from her prize bull. Hope you liked them.

maybe you should just start bolting, and forget about climbing. worked for me.

or take rhunt's advice and "semi retire"..this way you can blame every non-send on the fact that you are just getting back into shape or training....semi retired is almost as good an excuse as having to finish up bolting another classic.

just curious though...do you have a specific training program you follow in your dungeon? or is it just crank hard problems til the fingers bleed? how often do you campus? aerobics? drink beer? I am looking for some inspiration to train this winter, and you seem to be onto something.

No training program really, just boulder in the gym. I make sure to switch up between power 3-4 move problems and 6-8 move problems. Plus a good mix of crimp problems and sloper problems. Always be mixing it up so you catch a certain muscle group off guard every once in awhile. Campus once a week. I never not drink beer. I drink about 3 light beers a night. So if there is anything different I've done I'd say it would be staying dedicated to campusing. I think that really does a lot for core as well as contact strength. The new rungs you gave me are sweet. I flipped them to the slopey side and was sore for 3 days.

SCIN said "I do high intensity Low reps and then I do a shit load more high intensity low reps and then I mix it up with a good dose of specific power training and then I start my workout . I only do this six days a week ."
sounds balanced to me .

good days and bad days are delusions, you should just climb

i feel kind of bad for giving ray a hard time about how hard core he is.
i respect climbers who don't just have fun and go climbing, but approach climbing as an athletic endeavor and work in a disciplined way towards maxing out what their body's can do.
discipline sometimes means not training all the time or training low resistance high reps in a muscle specific way.
ray, you are my hero.

No problem, Lurk. I know you are a training maniac though. You demonstrated this with your obscure frankenstonian like one-arm pullup device. I'd hate to see what other strange strong man making inventions you have in your basement.

Yes. You refer to my patented, revolutionary unique force focusing one arm training device, The Archimedes Crank. I am glad to see you have become an acolyte.
I do have other "devices" dwelling in the basement. They aren't quite ready for unveiling yet, but stay tuned.

SCIN, it sounds like you are describing Golden Touch. I don't know about you but if I were able to do "the move" from the ground I would most likely get so excited that I wouldn't be able to keep it together till the end.

Another way I think of it, is using a weightlifting analogy. You can normally bench 100 pounds 10 times which represents from the 2nd bolt to the anchors. You are trying to lift 200lbs(the move) then lift 100lbs 10 times. Yes it is only one more rep. but it could be enough to cause problems with the entire set.