I asked a number of people at a UC Mountaineering Club party this question. One said Ed Viesturs. One said Jon Krakauer. One said Sir Edmund Hillary. Several said Fred Beckey. Many had a hard time with the qualification that they had to be still alive.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh