This year's project route
pigsteak - Whne I said progressive 10's I meant that at the Great Wall area there are several routes that start at 5.10 (Legonds of Limonite direct) to 5.10d (Touch of Grey) and all grades inbetween. Hence progessive.
The idea was that perhaps if 11 won't go 10d might. If not maybe 10c, 10b, 10a, or 10. And when one gets tired 9, 8, 7 and 6 are also available on the same wall wth the same type of rock.
There are no 11a's but Momma Cindy is pretty close at 11b. If you are feeling particulatily low gravity there are two 12's (projects still?) that could be worked as Red Points.
The idea was that perhaps if 11 won't go 10d might. If not maybe 10c, 10b, 10a, or 10. And when one gets tired 9, 8, 7 and 6 are also available on the same wall wth the same type of rock.
There are no 11a's but Momma Cindy is pretty close at 11b. If you are feeling particulatily low gravity there are two 12's (projects still?) that could be worked as Red Points.
"Dying?" Man, that's the last thing I want to do. - overheard
Although it was my first 11.a redpoint, I think maypop is hard as balls for 11.a, I'd suggest Critters on the Cliff at Muir Valley, way easy, or Armadillo at the Zoo, but then again I love slab.
Today I quit my job. And then I told my boss to go fuck himself, and then I blackmailed him for almost sixty thousand dollars. Pass the asparagus.
"Return to Balance" has a fun big move in the middle and a nice delicate balancy section up higher. Definitely not typical Red River routes. They remind me more of something out of New River. They will be online once a little bit more trailwork is completed. There is also plenty of potential for some long hard slab routes if anybody is interested.
Oh yeah, Hoss is right about "Critters on the Cliff"... (way easy): it's a one move wonder (if you are short) and the rest of the route is probably only 5.9.
Oh yeah, Hoss is right about "Critters on the Cliff"... (way easy): it's a one move wonder (if you are short) and the rest of the route is probably only 5.9.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
Okay, so if you find a nice project 11-something, train like mad, and it goes what's next? Not to hyjack, but where do you look next for 11-moderate and 11-hard? Say you are looking to hit 12's by next year where do you go to build your baseline on 11's?
"Dying?" Man, that's the last thing I want to do. - overheard