The road to RRG 5.12 sport...

Post by **Ballss** » Mon Dec 05, 2005 10:37 pm

roots wrote:jaded dicksnot 5.12 climbers.

I like that one.........

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Dec 05, 2005 11:36 pm

roots... are you including yourself as a dicksnot climber, or are you too cool to join that group? just curious how climbing 5.7 makes you a better person to "hang with"....(or vice versa)

Post by **512OW** » Tue Dec 06, 2005 12:15 am

roots wrote: People often forget to work on the mental aspect of climbing and focus entirely on brute strength.

.Only climb with harder climbers? Are you kidding me? I would much rather climb with a bunch of 5.7 climbers with positive attitudes than a bunch of jaded dicksnot 5.12 climbers.

Generally speaking, people who are on the cusp of 5.12 have already figured out that brute strength doesn't work...

What about jaded dicksnot 5.7 climbers? I know WAY more of those than jaded dicksnot 5.12 climbers....

Post by **512OW** » Tue Dec 06, 2005 12:20 am

Lateralus wrote:

I'd wager pretty much any sum of money that climbing a ton of 5.11's at the RRG will prepare you for the 5.12's better than any work out routine in existance, including bouldering on plastic/rock. Since we are talking about the Red, when did a hard move spit you off a route at the Red? 9 out 10 times you will fall off because you don't have the stamina to get to the anchors, not because you don't have the power to do a move. How does repeated dogging improve stamina? I agree it's good to get on routes that are too hard for you occasionaly to get motivated and see how far off you are,etc.. but if dogging routes that are too hard for you is your "training regimen" good luck with that

I disagree. Mental preparation (combined with general fitness) will get you up a 12 faster than climbing a bunch of 11's. I had done MAYBE 4 or 5 11's before doing my first 12...but I was totally convinced that I could do it.

In turn, I did dozens of trad 11's before my first 12....because I wasn't positive I could do 5.12 trad...it was a new thing in the Red at the time...

And if you only get spit off because of stamina in the Red...you're on the wrong routes. Hell, even I know there are tons of really cool bouldery routes....

Post by **Lateralus** » Tue Dec 06, 2005 1:19 am

yeah you're right OW climbing doesn't prepare you for climbing and anyone can climb 5.12 if they think they can

Also, I have a ton of bouldery routes in the RRG to sell you

Post by **512OW** » Tue Dec 06, 2005 1:25 am

Lateralus wrote:yeah you're right OW climbing doesn't prepare you for climbing and anyone can climb 5.12 if they think they can
Also, I have a ton of bouldery routes in the RRG to sell you

Umm....huh?

Climbing does make you better at climbing, but you're statement was that there was no workout routine in existence better than climbing a bunch of 11s, to prepare you for 12. Thats wrong. Maybe not for everyone, but what it comes down to is, if you believe it, it will work.

And there ARE tons of bouldery routes in the Red....

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Dec 06, 2005 1:28 am

too many puppies to start...a bouldery 12a.

suppress the rage...another bouldery 12a.

you just gotta move away from the lode....

Post by **512OW** » Tue Dec 06, 2005 1:48 am

Infectious

Post by **Danny** » Tue Dec 06, 2005 2:02 am

The road to gym 5.18 toprope... Take a magic marker and draw a horizontal line through the zero on a 5.10.

Post by **roots** » Tue Dec 06, 2005 2:15 am

Pigsteak, first off it's not a "cool" thing to me....and no I'm not including myself in the dicksnot category. Whenever I am at the Gorge, I am friendly and courteus to everyperson I meet. As of late, I've had cases where people have been completely rude for no reason. It's my opinion that those people should stay home or leave the attitude there. "Well, I've climbed this many .13s and this many .12s" So what? Who cares?Climbing 5.7 or 5.19 does not make anyone better to "hang with." I choose to hang with people who enjoy climbing for what is...having fun. I don't deal well with all the posturing and inflated heads that plague a "cool" person climbing scene.