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How about an onsight attempt and two redpoint attempts.

Danny wrote:How about an onsight attempt and two redpoint attempts.

That is per day, right?

17 tie ins on 50 degree days with 10 percent humidity. anything less would be a disgrace.

Astro,
If someone has talked to Blake and he says go for it then by all means hop on the what looks to be an amazing line. I know Hugh was joking. I cant speak for Matt but I would bet money that if someone came up and sent it without talking with him he would have some negative feelings about the situation. Your right, the pitch is "fair game" its a crack. I said that in my post as well. There's not a hallway monitor up there watching the cracks. Cracks are pretty much open game and I understand what cleaning a route takes and agree that putting an anchor on a crack doesnt make it yours. Its all about respecting the climbers in the community, esp ones working as hard as Blake does. So yeah make a big sign and put on the drive out there and put a flashing neon sign at the base to get EVERYONE on it. I still think that if people did get on it without talking to Blake knowing that he was working it and was close to sending that its just kinda shady. IMO(and maybe this is just being selfish and a dick) it would make me happier to see Blake send the route and watch the hard work pay off for him than it would for my name to be in the guidebook as the FA. Im not the best with words so hopefully my posts portrays whats in my head.

Matt said it. For someone who works as hard as Blake, folks want to leave him with his route. Doesn't mean it is his, it just means folks want to see him do it. If he gives up on it, he will call time on himself.

Technically this crack is considered a mixed route since it has a bolt protected crux though. So, does that fall under the same category as trad routes for the "open game" status? Not trying to start an argument here, just curious.

Don't get me wrong, I think Blake (for lack of a better word) deserves the FFA. He's put the time in and sounds close to a clean send. I just think it was a mistake to list the route as a closed project and also to discourage friendly competition in the hunt for an FFA of a "last great project" pitch.

And the bolt low on the route doesn't protect the crux, not even close... I know because I tried it back in the Spring... Holy s**t it was hard...

Last great project??? Man, you need to hike around a bit more. Tons more sick stuff out there.

SCIN wrote:Tons more sick stuff out there.

That look like "All That Glitters?" Ray, somehow I doubt it. ATG is about as stunning as a single pitch route can get. I'm quite certain there is plenty of other "sick stuff" out there that hasn't gone down yet... but there are precious few lines as clean and striking (and difficult) at the Red.

And obviously I meant that ATG was a Last Great Project-TYPE of pitch... OF COURSE it isn't THE Last Great Project... but certainly a high profile (for this community at least) project similar to the Bitch Crack and Armageddon.

Hmmm....I agree with SCIN....Astro, you need to do some more exploring before you make that statement. I can name 6 routes off the top of my head that look as good and are harder...

And no way its the same status as Nazi Bitch or Armageddon. Those routes were established aid lines for YEARS. Decade plus. John Long was the first to seriously make a go at Nazi Bitch....

I've been hearing about Blakes route for a few years, which I personally think is WAY too long to claim a project. Well, I think a day is too long. BUT, I'd rather wait till he sends it, then do it in a few tries....

For now.