RRC Archives

With all that chalk, wouldn't it technically be a flash?

With sticky rubber, chalk, and tape, wouldn't it technically be aiding?

JR wrote:About true onsights. What is a true onsight? Give me a true onsight I will give you a reason it is not a true onsight.

FA of a trad route. Walk up to the clif for the first time, spot a crack, get on it.


I like climbing the newest routes in Muir becuase there's no chalk on the wall yet. I also like climbing after a good rain becuase most of it is gone.

As far as Muir routes being 'soft', remember these routes were bolted and graded when still a bit dirty and mossy and before all the looser holds have broken off. Of course they have potential to get harder or easier as time passes. BUT -- you do have to admit that they're pretty consistant. Which is more than you can say in other places in the Gorge.

Artsay wrote:With sticky rubber, chalk, and tape, wouldn't it technically be aiding?

And if you look up while climbing you're getting beta.

We should all climb barefoot, naked, and blindfolded.

In adition, it is cheating if you have all your limbs. In order to climb in pure style, you limbs must be amputated.

i don't know about blindfolded, maybe with blinders on though

There is an easy fix to these "soft muirvalley ratings" -- submit your input in the online guide. If you guys look closely, most (if not all) of the ratings in the online guide reflect the consensus grade. Simple and easy as that. Artsay said it best:

Artsay wrote:...they (Team Muir) appreciate the input and will gladly change the rating due to user consensus....

Do me a favor, instead of riling up my boyfriend, vote on the online guide and leave it at that. You guys whine so much.

But squeeze, it's soooooooooo much more fun to complain instead! And don't you know that it makes ME look STRONG when I say the routes are soft???

There's an old school humility that seems to be lost in climbers today.

Thats funny Artsay because you did strike me as looking strong when you hiked the happy fisherman(12a) and promptly commented cooly that it might not be a twelve. I thought your comment was plenty humble. I didn't think you had hatched a plot to make me think you were some kind of superwoman(even though I think you are).

Chalk on the holds is one thing, tick marks are another. Tons of holds have chalk on them but still suck. 12 wall at Military anyone? But when someone puts a tick mark they're effectively telling you that that is the best spot in the area to grab. You don't have to read the route, interpret the chalk, or feel all the holds (with and without chalk). It's just stupid to tick holds.