Page 4 of 5

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 4:56 am
by Wes
BTW, Too Many Puppies is a super cool route. Very fun, and with new bolts, reasonably safe. The move past the last bolt is spicy!

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 12:16 pm
by t bone
The hanger, chain and quicklink from maypop is at Miguels. Ask Dario for it, someone dropped it off there.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 1:51 pm
by Caspian
the new bolts are reasonably safe?

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 1:57 pm
by Wes
Caspian wrote:the new bolts are reasonably safe?
Aren't they all? Guess, what I mean is, the bolts are good, and the falls mostly clean. Unless you backflip off the last move, like I almost did. "Emergency power to the left hand!!"

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 3:13 pm
by Caspian
Wes wrote:
Caspian wrote:the new bolts are reasonably safe?
Aren't they all? Guess, what I mean is, the bolts are good, and the falls mostly clean. Unless you backflip off the last move, like I almost did. "Emergency power to the left hand!!"
right on

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 5:25 pm
by marathonmedic
Hey, a back clip is better than a blown clip. You can always fix it later.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 5:43 pm
by Wes
marathonmedic wrote:Hey, a back clip is better than a blown clip. You can always fix it later.
Nope, you actually skip the clip, then try not to back flip on the next couple moves, then you can reach down and make the clip, or just make another couple easy moves and clip the chains.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 6:38 pm
by Stewy911
so wes u didnt try clipping the last bolt off that nasty right hand crimp, did u think that was the crux? i guess it makes sense to pull through it and get the decent hold to clip. ur not far at all above the second to last bolt and even if u went to the anchors and bit it without clipping the last it would be a clean fall.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 6:43 pm
by Wes
First time I tried to clip from the nasty crimp, and had to grab the draw. 2nd time I skipped the clip and just went from the good left hand to the hold under the roof with my right (near backflip 1) then fell into the little hold on the areate with my left (near back flip 2). And you are safe if you skip the last bolt, but it is way exciting to be all perched on the areate, looking at the uncliped draw, then throwing for a hold. Red point crux, but I think the move after the 2nd bolt were a bit harder. I killer route though. I guess Ball Scratcher is next on the scary arete tick list...

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 6:50 pm
by Stewy911
yea definately airy and scary but a classic. Did terry kep the bolts pretty much in the same spots or did he move some or add any etc? Good send on that man. I always though that was hard for the grade maybe im wrong.