RRC Archives

It's not worth it if your body was not meant for it. You'll just end up with injuries that you'll have to live the rest of your life with. Stay in your own fun zone. 5.11s are pretty rad! I just start getting injuries when I start working 5.12s.

I didnt read any resposes so sorry if I repeat anyting. Petty, Time, Time, and more time. You just have to get out, and climb more. If your freeked out about taking falls, go climb Fuzzy undercling ( thats the esayst climb I know thats steep like that) and take some lobbers into the air. Trust the bolts, trust your belay, and just go fer it! And if all else faills try climbing blown off the herb

I never really cared for Horst's book "How to climb 5.12". The only good thing in it is basically some programs for how to structure a bouldering workout. Other than that he says to boulder and fill in your pyramid so you'll get better faster. The rest of the book struck me as ways to send a 5.12 but not how to actually be a .12 climber. It's like an .11 climber sending one .12 and then spraying that they're a .12 climber. I thought it was a little too focused on the goal and the process he talks about is very time/labor intensive. (i.e. You have to start from scratch every time you find a new route.) Save your money or borrow it from someplace.

The thing that really helped me with lead falls was a mix of stopping caring whether I hit the ground mixed with a curiousity of how far I would actually fall before I stopped. Now that I think about it, I may have been clinically depressed when I made that transition but it enabled me to take whippers and ACCEPT THE FALL. I enjoy lead falls today. Now I just need to learn to clip when I'm pumped.

I went from my first lead to leading 5.10 in less than a year. I can see the next grades falling (with some learnin') soon. I'm almost 40 and just started climbing. If you're younger than that, shut up and go climb.

Falling is overrated. I hate to fall and I think that's why I make it up some climbs. I get above the bolt, get stuck or pumped, and force myself to the bolt because I don't want to fall. Of course, in this day and age, climbing involves falling and I do take falls, but I avoid them when I can.

gym climb