RRC Archives

Sunshine wrote: I top rope for me.

Are you implying that you lead climb to dazzle and delight all us on-lookers. Because it's working.

Maybe when I can climb 5.11 and 5.12 (which is probably never) I might think TRing isn't a send, but for now I'm happy climbing things cleanly on TR and learning to lead on easier stuff. I suppose I have the ability to lead more routes than I do, but its a head game with leading for me right now.

new piglet ruling, since everyone wants to make everyone feel good about their ascents.

the only true send is the one that mirrors that of the first ascentionist (or better).

first person did it on trad...then top rope doesn't count.

first party did it on sport lead...TR doesn't count.

first party TR'd it, and it is still a TR, then high fives all around.

if you beg to differ, consider this...the poll dosn't ask if leading is legitimate, because everyone assumed it is. even the most fearful climbers someday aspire to leading,at least something, so that in and of itself should tell you leading is held out as the superior standard.

top roping is cool, it is just not the best ascent....sort of like when lynn hill free'd the nose...now THAT was a superior ascent.

That's kind of liking playing HORSE with climbing.

good analogy busty! "I did it, now you do it"

but it is true....so get used to it...ever tried to bolt a crack someone already lead on gear? you'll get your head handed to you...why? casue first ascent style matters.

Why would you bolt a crack?

jrock...you don't really want to go there, do you? (btw, I would not bolt a crack, but I would not care if someone did.)

with that analogy, why bolt anything? it is hilarious how people talk about no rules, and do it in the style that feels right for you personally, but then under neath there is this unspoken "book of rules" that everyone must adhere to. faces are bolted..cracks are trad...why? oh, I know...because trad climbing is considered a purer ascent. but wait, isn't this thread trying to dispel that there is a hierarchy in climbing styles?...now I am really confused...why are bolted anchors OK on top of trad lines?

would this be ok instead? those two bolts we place at the anchors..let's take them and put them at the crux of the line...and remove the anchors and make people rap....would two bolts down low be any different than two bolts at top?

so in 20 years when that latest device comes out that suctions to the rock, should we go pull all of the bolts?

don't worry..I am board with the current laws, ethics, rules, unspoken voodoos and curses of climbing...however, I do rap bolt....20 years ago I'd be toast...

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board should be bored

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Now that I'm confident enough to lead midlevel sport stuff I know I have to learn some things about trad climbing so I'll probably rap in and toprope some routes or follow someone else's lead for a few months. But I've found that leading a route is not only more satisfying, I seem to climb more calmly and better on lead. It is far easier to vanish into the moment when on lead because if you screw up it's gonna hurt whereas with toprope it's just aggravating so your mind has more time to mess you up. It's just so different to lead than to TR... But some of my favorite climbs have been following someone else's lead so...

Screw it. Every moment I've spent climbing has counted. How's that?

sorry spellcheck..meant to say "I am on board with..."

piggie: Well hello Mister Fancypants. Well, I've got news for you pal, you ain't leadin' but two things: Jack and shit... and Jack just left town. (i hope you've seen army of darkness)