Anchors atop FFD

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
haas
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:06 pm

Post by haas »

Ascentionist wrote: I've been all over the Spaas Creek drainage, biking, climbing, bouldering. There's more there than most people realize.
Tell me about it. I've been back there to Blackburn Rock so many times in the last year I wandered around after getting frustrated on a route up there and finding all kinds of good rock.
Wes
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Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Haas, the OR on whitesides is the standard intro - True adventure climbing. First pitch is a 120 foot 5.7 solo. This shows an alternete (better?) finish.

Image


Wes
Last edited by Wes on Thu Mar 31, 2005 2:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
haas
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Post by haas »

Wes wrote: Unless you all have time off during the week.
After next Sunday I will have everyday free until August. I'm totally game for whatever if you want to hook up after that date
haas
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:06 pm

Post by haas »

sweet, what's it go at?
JB
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Post by JB »

wes dude, how hard can that be... you just follow the yellow line. that's not adventure!!!
[size=75]i may be weak, but i have bad technique[/size]
Wes
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Post by Wes »

Free at around 5.11, or 5.9 A0 - the crux is bolt protected face climbing.

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Meadows
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Post by Meadows »

JB wrote:wes dude, how hard can that be... you just follow the yellow line. that's not adventure!!!
:lol: Just call him Dorothy
haas
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Post by haas »

very nice
Wes
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Post by Wes »

Cool. I can work out time off during the week, no problem.

Meadows, does that make you Auntie Emm?

From:

http://www.seclimbers.org/modules.php?n ... pic&t=6425

You guys sound well suited for the Original Route. Go ahead and do it before you do anything else. It takes the most obvous line of weakness and the route-finding is straightforward. The first pitch is essentially a solo. Start further up the gully to the right and it shortens it and takes the sting out of it. You get a token cam behind a small flake but are far above it pretty quickly. remember that it is well within your ability, but blowing it would be unthinkable.
2nd pitch-easy traverse left and up to tree ledge.
3rd pitch-wandery cracks and vague corners.
4th pitch- 510+ corner that can be aided or tugged throuh on gear. take a large blue camalot or #4 Friend.
5th pitch - easy face
6th pitch-fun! Crescent pitch. step right into the void and follow a well protected corner to a good belay ledge
7th-easy
8th-bolt ladder. tug through on the bolts if you want to. Belay in a slight dish.
9th pitch-5.5 traverse right along a dike but sparse gear at your feet
10th pitch-long pitch or two short ones to the trees. easy.

Get Harrison Shull's NC guidebook. Good beta and route decriptions.

Do NOT haul a pack. Gear up in the parking lot. Put on your harness and rack and carry the rope on your back. Hike in in sandals or VERY light shoes, cause you'll have to clip them to your harness along with water. Maybe a small Bullet pack at the most.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
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Ascentionist
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Post by Ascentionist »

Not to put you off, but I would probably have to wait until the end of Apr or mid may.

Too many things going on this time of year. But I am willing and would go for sure.

Plus, I haven't climbed at all since early fall. I would need to do a little before I'd run off and go to Whitesides.

Give me a few weekends and I'll go.
There is no TEAM in I
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