Mixed route at Torrent
As I said earlier, it takes more than .02$ to bolt a route. 5.11a or b. Maybe 5.10d. I don't really know because I haven't tradded all that much. I used squeezers from .5 to 4.5 and one #8 hexagonad on it.
So now you'd better stop and rebuild all your ruins,
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
Seems to me that having a problem with putting in a bolt where there is a good trad placement is either an environmental issue or an elitist issue. It would be environmental in that the rock is being permanently altered. Since there are already alot of bolts and chalk marks at Torrent this doesn't seem to be a big issue there. Its kind of elitist to argue that a bolt should never be placed by a bomber trad placement because then only tradies can climb it. Any trady that wants to lead a sport rout with trad gear can easily (like J-rock said he's seen The Return of Chris Snider lead with trad gear). At least, I've never heard of a bolt hanger getting in the way of a trad placement.
As a consumate sporty who has only just recently been introduced to trad I would say bolt it. If I ever get into trad enough to want to lead it on trad I will still have that option if its bolted, but if its not bolted then I definitely won't be getting on it any time soon. Besides like someone said the Red is a sport climbing destination (not trad or bouldering) so why not put up another interesting sport route?
As a consumate sporty who has only just recently been introduced to trad I would say bolt it. If I ever get into trad enough to want to lead it on trad I will still have that option if its bolted, but if its not bolted then I definitely won't be getting on it any time soon. Besides like someone said the Red is a sport climbing destination (not trad or bouldering) so why not put up another interesting sport route?
We will do an environmental survey (ask Mark), an engineering survey (rock science), and a cost analysis (ask rhino if it can be done for .02$). We will take no further action until the above task are completed.
So now you'd better stop and rebuild all your ruins,
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
Then it can be a spicy sport route or a reasonably safe mixed route.
If you don't like the idea of it being bolted, then you should have gotten the FA. The route has been there a very long time at a very popular crag just waiting for you to claim it. What's that? You didn't think to do it? But now you want your say? Tisk, Tisk. Too bad. Go find your own crack and not bolt it.
Victory Whip in da House. Yeah.
True. Like I said I looked at that line last year but I too past on it like everyone else because it did not look apealing. As Terry said, looks can be deceiving and the route is better then it looks. Oh well for me, good job for him. It's up to him to decide what to do and while I think he shouldn't bolt it, I totally respect that he posted the question of whether or not to do it to everyone first before he made his decision.Toad wrote:If you don't like the idea of it being bolted, then you should have gotten the FA. The route has been there a very long time at a very popular crag just waiting for you to claim it. What's that? You didn't think to do it? But now you want your say? Tisk, Tisk. Too bad. Go find your own crack and not bolt it.