RRC Archives

J-Rock wrote:Zspider, several years ago I climbed Ro and onsighted it. It was a proud moment for me. I later proudly proclaimed that I did my first 5.12 onsight. Then I was told it was really 11d, therefore I found some other 12a's and onsighted them.

Great onsight, J-Rock! I've hangdog toproped my way through the whole thing several times, so I know I can do all the moves individually. Just gotta wire it so it goes fast without wasting time or energy, build up some endurance, and lose about 10 more pounds off my fat ass.

There's some bigtime female climber who complained that the high-level stuff she was climbing was consistently being downgraded after she did them.

ZSpider

Or maybe just a mis-print? Speaking of ego's it's nice to see yours is over getting banned now. Only took you a couple of weeks of pouting in the corner, lurking...

Wes

512OW wrote:

Wes wrote:If your ego needs it to be 5.12, then you should call it 5.12. Otherwise, it is just .11d. Check out porter and snyders guide for some more resonable ratings of other classics.

Personally, I would care more about being able to climb a *real* 5.12(13, etc) then a soft one.

Wes

Hahahahaha...yeah, check out Porter and Snyders guide to find out that Andromeda Strain is really 10d, and not 5.9 after all....

I also heard that "Inhibitor" was originally 5.10d. I haven't climbed it yet so I don't really know, but evidentally Jeff Koenig called it a 5.10.

If you want to climb some great technical 5.12's then go to New River.

I'm only responding cuz, well, I feel like it. I wasn't lurking at all. I checked my PM's, and only got onto the forum when Yasi directed me to something.

K. Thanks.

And just for your own notes, I would never pout over getting banned. I think it was a huge accomplishment. I considered going for the unban/reban time record...

Inhibitor as a 10d...I could agree. Tom has always called it 11a, and in my brief conversations with Jeff about it, I don't recall him calling it 10d. You have to remember, 5.11 wasn't established in the Red yet.......so it was tougher to call anything 5.11. Then Burden of Dreams got grossly overrated and threw off the whole damn scale......

Wes wrote:Or maybe just a mis-print? Speaking of ego's it's nice to see yours is over getting banned now. Only took you a couple of weeks of pouting in the corner, lurking...

Wes

Yeah, its really easy to type 10d, when you meant to type 9+

Oh look Wes, the ego is back in full force. He's not pouting now, just bitching as usual.

Welcome back!

Yeah, Keith said they used to joke about the Inhibitor being the hardest 10 at the Red. I guess like everything else, if you have the technique wired and know what moves you're going to make, it's not as hard. It took me 45 minutes of thrashing and flexing every muscle in my body to get into the chimney my first time on it, and once I knew what I had to do and which muscles to use, it became significantly easier. It still feels 5.11 to me, though.

As for Andromeda Strain, I can see it being either 5.9+ or 5.10a, since those grades seem pretty interchangeable. It's definitely not as hard as Sam I Am, though.

I climbed Ro and onsighted it. It was a proud moment for me. I later proudly proclaimed that I did my first 5.12 onsight. Then I was told it was really 11d

. . . and I bet the person who told you that was real proud of himself for pissing on your parade. What a jerk!

They should have celebrated with you in your accomplishment, bought you a beer, and then ask what's next? 8)

onsited ro and stay, thought stay was harder to onsite than ro, but when you get down to it, they're both just a couple steaming piles of SHIT!