While surfing through info on knots I came across this gem:
BEER KNOT:
http://www.canyoneering.com/gear/ties_beerknot.html
We tried it out in the gym...seems strong enough. Pain in the ass to tie...definately one that you would leave tied. Our problem here with the knot was that you can't see what's going on with it. It would be difficult to tell if it was moving on you or not. We would stick with the standard waterknot.
One of our members found this info on the beer knot however:
Chris Wood at RQ brought this to my attention. First new knot I've
learned in a long time (re-learned some, this I never heard of before.)
So, for your digestion and comment, here's some info and links I've
found on the topic:
Note that all testing references breaking strength. I've not seen any
reference to creep, which is what the water knot is known for. I have no
idea how to back up a beer knot, nor if it's important to do so.
Carey
Beer Knot- Published more than 10 years ago in climbing publications,
the Beer Knot is used to join 2 pieces or ends of tubular webbing
together to make a sling or runner. While the customary Ring Bend (Water
Knot) tests at 50-65% of strength (depending on which reference you
read), the Beer Knot is consistently at 80% as tested by PMI. The Beer
Knot is left tied, not removed as others are. It is useful for anchors
or other uses when you don't need to re-tie to adjust for length. Easily
tied on new webbing, it is a bit of a challenge with used webbing.
Gary Wilson
From the text of "On Rope" (revised edition) by Bruce Smith and Allen
Padgett, page 51: "At an NSS Convention in the late 1980's, Peter Ludwig
from Austria presented the Beer Knot"
http://beerknot.20m.com/
http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing ... _7-00.html
Where I found:
Test #11: Test the beer knot. This is an alternative to the water-knot.
It's tied as an overhand follow-though, but open up the tubular webbing
and do the follow through inside the other piece. The load was applied
to a loop of used 1" webbing tied with the beer knot.
Result: Webbing broke at shackle at 4750 lb.
Not a beer knot but interesting info for those who might consider
rapping on a munter hitch:
Test #13: Same test of a Munter hitch under more normal belay
conditions. Belayer standing, wearing gloves.
Result: Slipped at 670 lb
Note: Without measuring the force applied by the belayer, this is a very
subjective test. In drop tests conducted by others on a Munter hitch
belay with a 200 kg load, factor 1/3 drop on static rope, the belayer
has always been unable to keep the load from hitting the ground.
