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Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 4:04 pm
by Wes
Yasmeen wrote:Sultans of Stem, Lunatic Fringe, Right Crack, Wrong Crack, Finger Lickin Good, Close to the Edge. I finally got out to Hen's Nest, and it's great!
Cool, did you all find it OK? It is a neat little crag for sure. Did you check out astro-flex?
Wes
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 5:29 pm
by Yasmeen
Yeah, we even have about 2,435 ways to mark the place we want to cross the river next time! But we did find it on the first try, and I looked at all the cracks except for #1 & 2 in the guidebook, and they all look soooo good. Astro Flex looks really bouldery-- is it true that there's a dyno on it? I can't wait to head back out there! I loved the handjams on Lunatic Fringe, Right Crack, and Wrong Crack! Ahhh, climbing.
Lunatic Fringe was also good for my lead head, I think. I've never shaken so hard that I've actually been afraid of shaking myself of the rock! Pretty neat experience, though.
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 7:45 pm
by Jonathan
Representing the western front.....Ruckus, Rifle; Easy Skankin', Rifle; Straight Outta Compton, Mt. Charleston; and The Burglar, Mt. Charleston.
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 7:55 pm
by spuzo
I had my first experience with adventure climbing this past weekend. Lots of dirt, a 20 plus foot traverse in army crawl position, major foothold ledge thing blow out, lots of rope drag, some big bros, on the wrong crack, on the right crack, lost gear, gear retrieved...very very very late for dinner, worried husband sent out search party.....
*sigh* I love trad
Thanks Jesse!
Oh, I didnt say where it was did I, well it's to remain obscure for the time being.
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 7:58 pm
by Meadows
It was fun to follow Yas on Sultans, but the hike there was a bitch. Bushwacking solo to get out was even more of a bitch ... found a cute little baby snake (green with yellow stripes), but 5 minutes later I encountered a friggen copperhead which paralyzed me out of fear and made the rest of my hike an adrenaline rush.
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 8:12 pm
by Yasmeen
Spuzo-- I'm so psyched that you had such a kick-ass day! Jesse knows how to find adventure.
Meadows-- Sounds intense! I'm glad we got to climb with you, even if you had to leave early. You'll have to head out there again though... those other routes we got on were just as amazing as Sultans of Stem. Mmmmm... perfect handjams...
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 8:15 pm
by chester
dreamy hand jams!
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 8:46 pm
by captain static
Bauman's Problem @ Eden Park. This, as many problems @ Eden Park is an eliminate. On the manmade concrete fill under the arch near the parking area, climbs the left-hand face using only face holds. A slopey, slightly slabby problem. FA by Eric Bauman. FYI the right-hand, face only problem is called Scratch Off and is said to be V7?
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 9:07 pm
by spuzo
I like how this started in the sport forum and is a lot about trad...There's just nothing like a big bro shooting out at you like one of those "peanut brittle" snake-in-a-can things...and fall to it's supposed death in the valley below. Trad may be dirty, it may be painful at times, you may find things living in the cracks you want to put your hands in...and you may lose your britches because your harness is toooo weighted down with gear...but MAN it's FUN. You just don't get adventure with sport, least I haven't yet.
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 9:08 pm
by spuzo
Yasmeen wrote:Spuzo-- I'm so psyched that you had such a kick-ass day! Jesse knows how to find adventure.
Yeah Yas, watch out...I'll be sending your projects for warm ups soon enough. HA! just kidding...I'm making tape gloves at work as we speak...my co workers think I am just doing some hardcore typing! hahaha (also kidding)