Larry Day wrote:....... Then if you want to take a fun short scenic cruise do this unreported traverse from the seventies. Start from the sizeable ledge on Cavers and traverse east? below Insanity Ceiling, be sure to look down at the 5.9 thin corner of Wimp Out and by all means pause below the Tower of Power overhang and look up. This traverse goes in two very short pitches, and is only about 5.4., but covers some amazing terrain. Do it and you'd probably bag the second ascent.
Sorry, been done quite a bit. We used to call that the Tower Nose traverse. Having a little love for the choss we used to spend quite a bit of time there. The backside is a great area in the summer, shady and cool.
Cool, Charlie. I never hear people mention this line. You're talking about the traverse right up under the roofs, correct? The position is pretty spectacular for the level of difficulty. I'm glad to learn that people discovered it without mention in the guide book.
Wes...I was kidding. I have already been out thre and summited in the past....my trad leading ability stops at solid 5.10...anything higher and I place gear every 4 feet......
Charlie, I'm not talking about the Nose Traverse that's in the guide book. This traverse is up real high, immediately below the summit cap that forms the aforementioned roof problems. Pro is no problem. It's pretty different because there's nothing but solid stone above your head, and nothing but air beneath your feet. I was always terrible at coming up with good names for routes, but I was playing around with something like "the earth above, the sky below" ultimately I couldn't settle on anything so never told anyone about it. But it's fun, in a spectacular position, and about 5.4c..., maybe d. Check it out Sandy.
Start the same as insanity ceiling. Traverse to the east under the roof as far as possible, then downclimb a short corner to the ledge below the final pitch of tower of power. Belay at any convenient point on the traverse to minimize rope drag. From near the end of the ledge move up and right to a scrawny tree (if it's still there) then continue up to the top. Again, don't forget to look up and down at intersecting lines, cool views.