Unrepeated trad

Post by **TradWanker** » Fri Feb 20, 2004 4:30 am

Note to Wes:

Repeat Batman, or SHUT THE F@#* UP!

Nuff Said

Post by **Wes** » Fri Feb 20, 2004 4:51 am

Ha, fuck off. Look, I might give it a go when I get back this fall, if only to get him to shut the hell up. But, here is a newsflash: The route, while hard, isn't excatly a three star classic. And it is out in the middle of nowhere. Those two factors might have a bit more to do with it's unrepeted status then how hard it is. The few people who can climb at that grade rarely make 2nd or 3rd trips to it. Of course, with the holds breaking on it, it might not even be the same line anymore, and another accent would be the new FA. I mean, personally, I would be more proud of an FA on a three star 5.11 classic that gets repeated every weekend.

And, this isn't really about the route. It is about spraying about something so far in the past, like it is the only thing that has meaning in life. Yep, nice work for sure, great send. But it is the past. Move on.

Wes

Post by **SCIN** » Fri Feb 20, 2004 2:30 pm

I could repeat Batman for sure. Country Lovin' and Hidden Dragon are definitely WAY harder. It's just that hiking an hour to Indian Staircase just to deal with a bunch of rapelling rednecks and climb 40 feet of 5.5 to a five foot crumbling choss slot doesn't make for a very exciting day. Shit man, Kris almost onsited the thing the day we were there. If it were closer it would definitely have been repeated by now.

Post by **Johnny** » Fri Feb 20, 2004 2:42 pm

Wow. Somebody musta whizzed in Wes' Flat Tire Ale. Jeez dude. Cap'n Static is just stating facts. Of course there are many climbers capable of doing these unrepeated routes today. But fact is, they haven't. Nuff said.

Post by **SCIN** » Fri Feb 20, 2004 3:16 pm

I did think of an unrepeated trad route. Bart's "Better Red than Dead" at Indian Creek. Unrepeated and many attempts.

Post by **captain static** » Fri Feb 20, 2004 4:46 pm

What Johnny said. Again I was trying to make a point about certain types of strengths needed to climb certain types of trad routes. And Wes, dude, I'd be spraying about some of my more recent lines but the Forest Service won't let me. Gotta wait at least a couple of years for that. At least that's what I'm told.

Post by **ynot** » Fri Feb 20, 2004 11:44 pm

I pretty much just gave up hope of my lines ever becoming routes.And yes a couple of them are 2 stars.We have plenty of time to think of cool names apparently.

Post by **TradWanker** » Sat Feb 21, 2004 3:52 am

Note to Wes:

No repeat, idle chatter, Johnny states the facts.

Post by **captain static** » Sat Feb 21, 2004 7:48 pm

SCIN then:

We flipped a coin and 512OW got first lead. I half assed put him on belay and he began climbing. About 10 feet up he started to say "Damn...frictiony".

The wide section of the route consists of the most flaring slot I have ever witnessed. Basically it is a water groove...like straight out of Horsepens 40.

I wouldn't even call it an offwidth...it's just SICK.

SCIN now:

climb 40 feet of 5.5 to a five foot crumbling choss slot

My how our view changes with the passage of time!

Also:

If it were closer it would definitely have been repeated by now.

What's up with that? This ain't no sport climbing. Hiking in is part of the adventure. That is what I liked about climbing w/Alex Cudkowicz. He had buschwhacked miles through the Pasayten Wilderness to climb unclimbed peaks so no hike in the Red was too long for him. I'll never forget when I took him to do the second ascent of Eagle's Gift. We backpacked in along the Trace & slept out under the stars beside a rock. I woke up to the smell of coffee that Alex was brewing while still in his bag. Then the excitement as Alex grunted through the crux. And finally, the remembrance of the route climbed years before as I seconded up to the top. At least this time we had two ropes and could rap instead of on the FA when we were fools with only one rope and had to bushwhack miles to get down.

Post by **Bruisebrother** » Sun Feb 22, 2004 1:30 am

Back to the thread, has the fist and hand crack about 30' left of 'Come in your lycra" been done again? It has a roof and about 30' of runout slab to the webbing at the top. It's called 'Leav'n your lycra'.