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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 4:59 pm
by Guest
tards, all of you
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:00 pm
by rhunt
aaron wrote:downclimbing w/o hanging on gear is still accepted as an onsight as far as i'm concerned.
I totally disagree, onsighting also has a mental component to it. You have to overcome fear and climb into the unknown and then complete the climb. There is a reason for downclimbing, right, fear or some other factor made the climber down climb, therefore it's not an onsight. Next time he or she attemps the climb and makes it to the top without falls...that will be a redpoint...
Seems pretty black and white to me..
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:03 pm
by rhunt
SCIN wrote:This has been proven to still be a onsite by Yuji Hirayama's world famous onsite of Sphinx Crack 5.13b/c.
Yuji warmed up by onsiting the first half of the route, placing pro on lead, then downclimbing and removing his pro. He then rested and proceeded to onsite the route.
A very respectable send..but not an onsight!
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:05 pm
by rhunt
SCIN wrote:SikMonkey,
So are you saying that Yuji's world famous onsight of Sphinx Crack was not really an onsight?
That what I am saying...
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:09 pm
by SCIN
Monday Morning Quarterbacks.
I love it.
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:11 pm
by rhunt
SCIN, your right, it only matters to the person who climbed the route. BUT if we are going to have labels and terms attached to climbing then we need to be consistant in how we define them?
You only get one chance to onsight a climb...period
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:20 pm
by SCIN
Okay, so the next time you downclimb a few moves during an attempted onsight to take a breather on the jug I'm going to blow my fag-crag whistle on your ass and call out your onsight. Same thing right? I mean, you have the muscle memory and knowledge of the moves above you now so the onsight is blown.
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:27 pm
by SikMonkey
....but you haven't stepped completely off the route. You are still on route, same attempt.
Mj
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:30 pm
by rhunt
Only if I down climb back to the ground brah..come on you know this stuff!
The muscle memory thing is not my point, my point is that there is more going on during an on-sight attempt then just the physical, the mental game plays into it.
I am not trying to dis your boy Yuji, he's a great climber, but this is the first time I heard the details of his on-sight of Sphinx and I disagree with it being on-sight.
oh and can I hear your "Fag-crag whistle"
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:32 pm
by Artsay
Personally, I don't see how downclimbing a route to a no hands rest (i.e. Fuzzy Undercling) and hanging out before trying the moves again/sending it is any different than downclimbing to the ground and doing the exact same thing. Having been up the first 15 feet of a route is not having been on the whole route. What if it was a 5.12 and the first 15 feet was 5.9 climbing you downclimbed? Just because the holds were wet you would lose your chance to onsight it? That's just silly...
There are two sides, I guess. It's a personal game and how you chose to play it is up to you. In my book, it would still be an onsight.