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pigsteak wrote:sandy, what me..trolling? never....

the thread asked how people clean sport routes. that's what I am addressing.
I use two lockers on multipitch trad.

Feeling safe is a relative process as we all know. reverse and oppose used to be the accepted standard "in the day", so I wouldn't call it unsafe.

hahaha! I thought this thread was posted under trad - so I was wondering why it said "sport routes." Can I blame it on the pain killers?

I rarely ever need to clean.I dont do sport much so most times I am improvising some sort of rap. Don't worry I still remember how T Frye taught me to do it. I use 2 slings,lockers if I have them and clip the rope to something. I like the idea of using daisies.

I get to the draws and start crying.
Usually Theresa will say "Ok ya big baby, just let me lower you and I will clean them myself ".
When that doesn't work I clip into either available links on chains, rings, anchors, or the top biner of the draws used for tr'ing (It all depends on what's there) using 2- 2ft. runners. No lockers, opposite and opposed on my belay loop.
Yell, "I'm off" or "Off Belay" or "I'm in the anchors".
Unclip the rope from the draws used to set up a TR.
Pull up maybe 8' of rope, tie a figure eight on a bite and clip it to one of the TR draws, or girth hitch to one.
Untie my end of the rope and thread it through the anchors, rings or chains.
Re- tie if lowering, or start crankin' away if I'm rappin'.
Then undo the 8 or girth and get back on belay for a lower or get on rappell and test the system with body weight.
Claen all the draws and head on down.

I use draws cause I lost my slings and I am too poor to buy new ones.

Usually draws but sometimes I use daisy chains.

I use a sling and a draw. Hopefully this week I'll have time to get a daisy chain and locker so I'll be a little safer. Definately the daisy chain so I can adjust the length.

Got tired of the bulky 2' slings and use 2' cords now girthed to my harness. I've been using lockers, but will probably switch to regular biners soon. No question this can handle a meager 166lbs of static weight which ends up being 83lbs per safety line. I've seen a few people use quickdraws for their anchor safety, but that's too short for my six foot frame, too bunched up.

speaking of all of this...

How is this for 'anal retentive on safety'.

On my harness at all times is a large Pear shaped locker that has on it two short cordelettes that are suitable for prussiks, klymheists etc, a plastic whistle, and a serated edge jack knife.

the two cordelettes and locker are what is needed to escape a belay, the knife is there should I ever need to escape a system, and the whistle is to call for help. I also use a klymheist on a long rapell, so I have the cordelette always on me.

I think being anal on safety is a good thing. Good ideas ccg!

i have all those things on my harness except for the knife. plus a nut tool. but i usually take that stuff off when i am sport climbing.