Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2003 7:07 pm
What is this about bolts wearing out? These bolts are grade 5 and don't "wear out." They will rust over time, but they don't wear out from lowering.
On some routes with anchors side by side you might notice a hairline fracture running between the two anchors. You have to look close. Placing one anchor high and one low eliminates this, as the anchors are in two different pieces of stone...since sandstone forms in layers. Most anchors don't require lowering off a single point, but instead threading the rope through the ends of two different pieces of chain.
Regardless of the anchor setup, there isn't much to worry about. Afterall, you are just lowering off the anchors, not falling on them. Taking a 60 foot whip on a single bolt is no problem, and doesn' t cause any "wear" on a bolt...lowering is certainly less impact...
On some routes with anchors side by side you might notice a hairline fracture running between the two anchors. You have to look close. Placing one anchor high and one low eliminates this, as the anchors are in two different pieces of stone...since sandstone forms in layers. Most anchors don't require lowering off a single point, but instead threading the rope through the ends of two different pieces of chain.
Regardless of the anchor setup, there isn't much to worry about. Afterall, you are just lowering off the anchors, not falling on them. Taking a 60 foot whip on a single bolt is no problem, and doesn' t cause any "wear" on a bolt...lowering is certainly less impact...
