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Re: Carabiner snapped in a fall

Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:54 pm
by dustonian
djcbuffum wrote:This pertains to BD wiregate biners, but it's perhaps informative anyhow:

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en ... carabiners

I note that the break point in your biner is the same as the BD biner that had the nose hooked on the bolt. Biners that broke with an open gate, closed gate, or cross-loaded had a different break pattern.

Just food for thought.
Pretty convincing I have to say.

Re: Carabiner snapped in a fall

Posted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 9:35 pm
by lena_chita
djcbuffum wrote:This pertains to BD wiregate biners, but it's perhaps informative anyhow:

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en ... carabiners

I note that the break point in your biner is the same as the BD biner that had the nose hooked on the bolt. Biners that broke with an open gate, closed gate, or cross-loaded had a different break pattern.

Just food for thought.
Yes, I agree, the break in that spot usually indicates hooked nose. But you don't get hooked nose on a notchless carabiner, unless something (in this case, the rock, most likely) holds the biner in that position.

I do know with complete certainty that the nose of the carabiner was not hooked before I started moving. I was hanging there for a minute, at least, looking at that draw and shaking out. I kicked it/bumped it when moving, it rotated a bit and got snagged. I do not see this as inconsistent with hooked nose. It is just that you can get there in different ways.