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Re: Sport Climbing Season
Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 1:31 pm
by shear
allah wrote:One-Fall- Out of the areas I have climbed around the states, southern Spain, frankenjura, and ceuse NR and most of the tech routes would be a grade or 2 softer. I've mainly come to that conclusion after spending time in Europe, I thought the climbing was going to be aboUt the same but it is truly humbling over here. That's not to say that I have also climbed routes easy for the grades as well. As far as NR when I did it I had a few factors go my way even though the conditions were shit, and I remember thinking for me the route was 12d but could see 13a. Then others got on it and thought 13c or really hard b. (other than Jason forester which thought the same as I did. You know as well as I know that grades are personal, he'll if I had an 8a account Golden boy would be 13d for me
and there are many routes like that in the red for me! Nice job once again on NR and F*ck SM up!
This. At an area like the Red, routes SM, NR, Dracula, Golden Boy, etc...routes that require technical prowess...are going to get a "harder" grade than they may in places like Smith, the NRG, etc...as they are the anomalies in the area. Who really knows what they are...I was more just talking out of my ass as I've ever been on SM and itching to give someone a hard time.
Route looks badass. Enjoy it.
Re: Sport Climbing Season
Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 6:58 pm
by allah
Yea Dracula Is probably 12d as well!
Re: Sport Climbing Season
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 2:14 am
by SCIN
I've heard some people say Sugar Magnolia would be 13b at the New. But it shouldn't matter, Lee. You are inspired by the line and not the grade.
Re: Sport Climbing Season
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 2:37 am
by One-Fall
SCIN wrote:I've heard some people say Sugar Magnolia would be 13b at the New. But it shouldn't matter, Lee. You are inspired by the line and not the grade.
I am inspired. Come help me figure it out in the spring.
Shear and Allah, thanks for the info. Hope to see you guys out there.
Re: Sport Climbing Season
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 2:48 am
by dustonian
Personally I don't buy the whole "New is hot hardman shit and Red is soft" story, but then I'm not really trying the 13's. At the 5.11-12 range, the New is often soft if anything--Bullet the New Sky and Jesus & Tequlia, for instance, are two "standard" 12b's there, and I have little doubt they would be 12a or even 11+ here. Not that this is relevant to anything.
Re: Sport Climbing Season
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 2:59 am
by Andrew
dustonian wrote:Personally I don't buy the whole "New is hot hardman shit and Red is soft" story, but then I'm not really trying the 13's. At the 5.11-12 range, the New is often soft if anything--Bullet the New Sky and Jesus & Tequlia, for instance, are two "standard" 12b's there, and I have little doubt they would be 12a or even 11+ here. Not that this is relevant to anything.
Agreed, I have always climbed harder at the New than the Red, but I am tall.
Re: Sport Climbing Season
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 3:13 am
by camhead
dustonian wrote:Personally I don't buy the whole "New is hot hardman shit and Red is soft" story, but then I'm not really trying the 13's. At the 5.11-12 range, the New is often soft if anything--Bullet the New Sky and Jesus & Tequlia, for instance, are two "standard" 12b's there, and I have little doubt they would be 12a or even 11+ here. Not that this is relevant to anything.
I would be interested to see if other RRG climbers think that Jesus & Tequila is soft. Somehow I think you may be the anomaly.
Re: Sport Climbing Season
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 3:57 am
by dustonian
True, that one was harder. Other softer routes IMO in that range include Tobacco Road, Reckless Abandon, and Disturbance.
Re: Sport Climbing Season
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:24 pm
by pigsteak
SCIN wrote:I've heard some people say Sugar Magnolia would be 13b at the New. But it shouldn't matter, Lee. You are inspired by the line and not the grade.
is this were true for lee he'd be picking his projects at curbside....
Re: Sport Climbing Season
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 1:36 pm
by Yasmeen
Best pre/during/post season yet - it's been fun to get more comfortable on steeper terrain.
I almost jumped off a move before the chains yesterday so that Lee wouldn't unfriend me.